August 24th, 2008
Gallery link: http://myjeeptj.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=11994
Where: Grande Cache, Alberta
When: August 7th - 10th, 2008
Who: Edmonton Jeep Club ( EJC), True North Trailrunners of Grande Prairie ( TNTGP), ECO 4 Wheeling Society ( ECO), Northern Alberta 4 Wheel Drive Association ( NA4WDA), Calgary Jeep Association ( CJA), 4 Wheel Stampeders ( FWS) and Chinook Country Jeep Club ( CCJC).
ACE 2008. The TNT Off Highway Club out of Grande Prairie puts on a large event each year to raise awareness about the 4 wheeling community in Alberta. This is only the 2nd year of this event, but it is already a big event and is growing fast each year. The whole TNT club is heavily involved in the event, but the main event coordinator is Corey Kruchkowski. They get the Sustainable Resource Development of Alberta (SRD) involved as well as the whole town of Grande Cache. The TNT club invites members of select clubs from Alberta (listed above) to attend, and both clubs that I am in, EJC and NA4WDA were invited to the event. They keep the event invite only because it is largely about showing Alberta, Grande Cache and the SRD that responsible four wheeling can be done without any negative effect on the environment and trails. In fact, they were pleased last year to find that the trails were left in better shape than they were before we showed up. A large effort is put towards trail clean up, and it shows. We were to be on our best behaviour, and having the event open to the public would prove to be difficult to oversee.
There was a small fee to come to the event, but it was largely put towards an amazing prime rib meal saturday night by a local business called the Vegas Bar and Grill. The meals were huge, and the food was fantastic! Several sponsors were helping out the event including Take It Off-Road, Fas Gas in Grande Cache and Vegas Bar and Grill. Take It Off-Road even offered up some amazing prizes for most garbage collected, and most unique piece of garbage found. Everyone had at least one garbage bag on board. The SRD of Grande Cache even opened up some previously closed areas for us to wheel in! I also need to put in a thanks to Tom Ward who owns the Fas Gas in Grande Cache. Him and his wife opened up their home to all the members of EJC for the weekend. We littered their lawn with tents, got to use the shower in the mornings, and some of us even slept inside on the couch and spare bedroom. They sponsored the event with a huge wiener roast, tons of water and pop, chips, cookies and other snacks, and generally treated us like royalty. They are something else, thanks a TON to the Ward Family!

We met at the ball diamonds early friday morning and had a gathering and meeting about the day’s events. I’m not sure the exact numbers but I would guess that there were 50 or more rigs and at least 100 people there for the day of wheeling. There were 4 trail leaders and 4 trails for the day, so we split up the rigs into groups and headed out for the day. The group of rigs I was in for friday was the largest of the four I think. We had 18 rigs, and were headed for the Kaw Ridge trail. TNT classifies it as a 3 out of 5 for difficulty, mostly due to a couple steep areas, and the possibility of some real difficulties if the trail was wet. The weather was 30+ celsius however so it was very dry, and I felt that there were no obstacles over a 2 rating myself. This event is not about the toughest trails you can find however and I knew this before the event started. When you have a group of rigs as large as we did you can’t go out and just tackle very difficult trails because of all the different types of rigs and people you get. This trip was about awareness, meeting new people, trail clean-up and the amazing scenery.

On the Kaw Ridge run, the trails were a good mix of small water crossings, rocky climbs, wooded trails, and high altitude slopes. The whole trail could be run by a stock jeep in dry weather, but the incredible views on the mountains easily make up for the easy trail rides. There were large descents into canyons that quickly jutted back up the other side. We had a large enough group that from the front of the pack you could see all the way down the trail and back up the other side, rigs lined up on the trail the whole way. It was quite a sight to see!

We got to the top of Kaw Ridge and saw mountains as far as the eye could see in all directions. To the south we could see Mount Robson, the highest point in the Canadian Rockies (middle right in the photo). As we headed back down towards town, Robert from Take It Off-Road who is also a professional photographer went on ahead to catch some great shots of us coming down for the upcoming ACE article in 4WD Magazine. When we got back to town we all had a huge wiener roast, had some drinks and enjoyed the great weather.

The next morning we woke up at the same time for another great day of wheeling. For this day, Corey mentioned that if we wanted to go on a guided run like the previous day they would have trail leaders for that… but if we wanted to go out and explore we could do that as well, as long as we stayed on the marked trails of course. EJC has a club member that lives in Grande Cache (Kyle Ward, Tom’s son). We decided that it would be fun if he showed us some of the trails in the area and headed off towards Grande Mountain. We took the easy way to the peak which is basically a rough gravel access road. Any 4wd vehicle could get up there in dry weather. Once we were at the peak we stopped at the radio towers for some good shots of the town below and a couple good posers shots of the jeeps at the top. Once again the view up here on the top of a mountain never ceases to amaze.

We headed towards Grande Cache from the top, down the North Face Trail. It’s a pretty tight trail mostly used by quads. There are some very steep sections, enough so that most people won’t traverse the trail. We went down it to the bottom of the mountain and got ourselves a much wanted taste of some difficulty. Once we got to the bottom, we stopped off at Kyle’s place for a quick break and decided that we didn’t get enough and had to go back up the difficult trail. Earlier in the weekend Corey and the TNT guys (who are all 35″ tires, mostly 38″) told us that they turned back on this same trail once when it was not dry. We figured with the dry weather and the good traction we were getting on the way down we would not have any issues. The climb back up, especially the very bottom and very top sections were extremely steep, but we did not have any traction difficulties despite a couple rigs in our group running with open differentials. We made it to the top in an hour flat which was a good 45 minutes faster than it took to get down.

We started to make our way back down the gravel road towards town and came up to a large group of rigs from the ACE event. They were making their way to the top of Grande Mountain when they spotted a car that had been abandoned and tossed off a cliff down into a valley. It was about 200 feet from the trail down a steep face. They decided that it would be a good idea (and a shoe in for the garbage contest) to haul it out of there. They used two winch lines and a bunch of recovery straps for length to hook up to the car and winch it up to the trail. They had just gotten it up and were getting ready to drag the car back down to the road so they could fetch a car hauler and take it into town for proper disposal. They hooked two rigs up to the car, one on the front and one on the rear. One to do all the work, and one to keep tension on the back so it would stay on the road. The car had tires still but they were all unseated and non-rolling. Once they got it back to town, they parked the car hauler outside the Vegas Bar and Grill for everyone to see. They contacted the police and we all had a wicked dinner at the bar. I’m not sure of the full story here but the poilice pulled the VIN and managed to bring the kid that owns the car who was also responsible for sending it over the cliff to the bar. They had a long talk with Corey and the TNT guys about the $6500 in tickets that such an offense would warrant. I guess the police decided to go easy on him because of the work that the ACE guys put forth to retrieve it. The police said that if he could work something out with them, then they would drop all charges. Kudos to them for being able to work something like that out, and not turning the event into a story about how some local kid got in huge trouble because of all this. That was definitely not the intention. The car was taken to the local dump for a fee of $150 which the kid payed I assume, and that’s that. It was mostly the ECO club that was there to retrieve the car, and they used jeeps and a car hauler from ECO members to bring it to town, so they were awarded with the prize of $500 credit at Take It Off-road.
We stayed over night and headed home Sunday morning. The weekend was a complete success, and we all had an amazing time. I’m not sure what sort of impact the event will have on the SRD guys or the press, but I am certain that it will be positive. Kyle did catch an article in The Grande Cache Mountaineer news paper, which was very positive. You can check it out here and here. Thanks for inviting EJC, and thanks again to our sponsors, Tom Ward, and Corey Kruchkowski with the TNT guys for making an event like this possible. I will be coming back every year for this one, I had a blast! Please check out the full gallery for this one folks, there are some pretty amazing scenic shots in there worth checking out!
I’ve also got a pretty cool little topographical map that shows all the trails that we ran saturday on Grande Mountain. Thanks imbezol for the image! Check it out here.
-Davin (Raskull)
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2 Comments
August 11th, 2008
Everyone eventually gets some gunk stuck in their bead while offroading. Sooner or later you will find that your tires won’t hold air as well as they used to, and you will be looking for a cheap fix. Well, here it is! With basic tools you can pop your outer, inner or both beads and clean out all the crud in there. The best part of this method: It requires no grunt work. Your jeep’s weight does all the work for you! |
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Tools:
Breaker bar
3/4″ Socket
Jack stand
Floor jack
Hi-lift jack
Wire brush
Dish soap
Valve core remover
Nail puller
Air compressor
Parts:
n/a
Time:
30 minutes per tire
Gallery link: Click here |
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1: Park your Jeep TJ on level ground, apply the e-brake, put it in gear and crack the lug nuts on the tire you intend to fix. Once the lug nuts are cracked, go ahead and jack up the jeep until the tire is off the ground. Place a jack stand under there and remove the tire. |
2: Remove the valve cap and the valve core. A valve core remover is a great tool to have and they are very cheap at pretty much any auto or 4×4 store. If you don’t have one, just let out all the air you can with whatever method you usually use when airing down. |
3: Position the tire underneath your favourite jacking point on your Jeep TJ. I chose to use the rockers, but you can do the same on a bumper as well. With a hi-lift you can now position the foot of the jack right on the edge of the rim. Start jacking up the jeep until the weight of the jeep pops the bead on the tire. This requires some caution because you don’t want to lift the jeep off your jack stand only to have it come crashing back down onto it when the bead pops. Generally this should not be a problem however because the tire will flex quite a lot before the bead actually pops, so it shouldn’t drop too much. Use some common sense and make sure you are careful. Theoretically you could pop the bead using the same method with anything that will apply enough down force, but it’s nice to work with the jeep because it can be repeated on the trail if needed. |
4: As you can see in this photo, I had some good chunks of mud in there that prevented it from sealing. I was losing about 10 psi/day. Once the bead is popped you should be able to stand on the other side to get it completely unseated. With it unseated you can now see and feel the dirt in the bead area. I listed a nail puller in the tools above because I had a ton of hard packed mud in mine and the nail puller worked great for scraping it off the rim. I also used a wire brush for the softer stuff. Once you have all the bead area clean and you’re confident it will seal up good, clean up the area as much as you can and spray it down with some soapy water. This will help it seat easily and will also aid in finding leaks that persist. despite your best efforts. |
5: Put the valve core back in. With the tire all soaped up and ready to seat, hook up your air compressor to it, and try your best to start the seal. This is done by holding the tire towards the outer portion of the rim. If you hear hissing you’ve probably got a section that’s not sealing. With a little patience, you can get it seated by hand even with a slow air compressor. If you’re having troubles, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and tighten it up slightly. This will push the tire towards the rim and help it seat. I didn’t need to do this, but you should have a ratchet strap in your off-road toolkit anyway. If you forget the soapy water on the tire it will still eventually seat, but be prepared for a loud BANG when it does. Hopefully the neighbors don’t call the cops when they think you shot someone! WATCH YOUR FINGERS AS YOU SEAT THE BEAD! If you catch a finger in there you’ll likely be taking a trip to the hospital. |
6: Put the valve cap on and check for leaks. Spray the bead area liberally with the soapy water, and you will see bubbles if there are still leaks. If you can’t seem to get rid of all the leaks a coating of bead sealant on the edge of the rim should do the trick, but don’t use it if you don’t have to, as it makes a mess next time you need to remove the tire. |
| 7: Put the tire back on, tighten the lug nuts slightly while the tire is in the air, then let the jeep back to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft lbs. |
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This will hopefully save you some cash. It sure beats taking it to a tire shop, paying $15-$35 and waiting for it to be done, only to have it mounted white letters out! Yuck! Not only that, you can’t drink a beer while you wait! What is this world coming to? You can at least have a beer while the tire fills up, if you do it yourself.
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
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-Davin (Raskull)
3 Comments
July 28th, 2008
Just a quick note.. I did up a drawing for cutting/forming the rockers.
Click the image for a fullsize version.

- Davin (Raskull)
No Comments
July 27th, 2008
I finished up my custom made rockers yesterday. 6 months (maybe more) in the making. Not because they are really that difficult, but just because I didn’t put effort into them each day until they were done like I should have. I mostly let them sit around at the shop. They turned out really good, and I’m extremely happy with them. They are as beefy as the best made aftermarket ones, and I incorporated a couple features you cannot find anywhere else to make them unique. The final paint colour is what I’ll be using for all my armour on the jeep. I coined it “Nth Degree Gray” because it’s close to the colour that Nth Degree Mobility used before they went under and were bought out by AEV. I realize that this install won’t be performed by anyone else because they are a one-off set, but the basic install steps are the same for almost all body mounted rocker panels. If you needed to install a set of Shrockworks, Warn, AtoZ, Rokmen, etc etc… these would work fine. This is specifically what I used for my install, so some things may differ (like the drill bit size). Some common sense is needed. On the other hand, there are some steps in here that manufacturers generally won’t list, like sealing your bolt holes with acrylic. Alright, enough banter.. on with the pictures and install! |
| Some specs on them: |
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3/16″ 44w steel plate
1.5″ .120″ wall DOM tubing for the steps
.135″ stainless steel sandwich plates inside the tub on the floor and the sides.
Instead of one 90 degree bend, they have two bends 2″ apart. Going downwards, the first is 60 degrees, then 30 degrees.
The tubes are about .950″ away from the rockers compared to most brands at 2″ or so.
The tubes are angled upwards at a 20 degree angle.
Full under body coverage almost to the frame. Mounted to only the body, not the frame or body mounts.
All 5/16″ hardware, stainless on the sides, normal on the bottoms.
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Tools:
Floor jack
Jack stands (x2)
Drill
21/64″ drill bit
3/16″ allen key
Ratchet
1/2″ socket
1/2″ wrench
Large c-clamp or c-clamp vise grip (x2)
Touch up paint
Caulking gun
Mono clear acrylic
Parts:
Rockers (x2)
.135″ stainless steel sandwich plates of various sizes (x8)
5/16″ x 1″ stainless steel flush head cap screw (x12)
5/16″ x 3.5″ grade 8 bolt (x2)
5/16″ x 2.25″ grade 8 bolt (x2)
5/16″ x 2.5″ grade 8 bolt (x8)
5/16″ fender washer (x12)
5/16″ lock washer (x24)
5/16″ nylock nut (x24)
Time:
3-4 hours
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1: Start off by removing your fender extensions if you have them. It should be a 8mm wrench if I remember correctly. There are three bolts each. Once that is done grab your drill and drill out the inserts that the bolts thread into. Just like drilling out a rivet. |
2: Clean the area that the rocker will be attached to. Clean the inside of the rocker as well. Place the rocker into place and then hold it up with the floor jack. A friend helps when doing this. Once you have it positioned how you want it you will need to pre-load the rockers. This is done because you want it to fit as tight as possible. If you don’t do this step you will likely end up with a small gap, and hitting the bottom of the rockers off-road could cause the holes to rip upwards until the bottom touches. With the floor jack underneath, jack up the side of the jeep a bit until there is good upwards pressure on the rockers. You can then put jack stands under it and get the floor jack out of your way. |
3: It’s time to drill some holes! Check to see that side-to-side they are centered. If the rockers aren’t quite flush to the sides, use some c-clamps to get it there before drilling. Using the rocker’s holes as a template, drill 21/64″ holes in the forward-most and rearward-most holes. Place flush head bolts in, put fender washers and nuts on the back and tighten them down enough to hold the rockers in place. This is done to make sure the rockers don’t shift around or move while you drill the rest. |
4: Drill the rest of the holes in the side and put bolts in all of them. Make sure your carpet/floor mats are out first, then drill all the holes in the bottom the same way. |
| 5: Remove the rockers and clean the inside of the rockers and all mating surfaces on the Jeep TJ really well. There will be all sorts of metal particles in there and you don’t want them to sit in there permanently! Go ahead and touch up all the holes you’ve drilled and give it 20 minutes to dry or so. Now is a great time to have a beer and get your caulking gun ready. |
6: We’re gonna put some acrylic around all the bolt holes now. Make sure you only cut a small hole in the tip of the acrylic tube. We’re doing precise work here! Caulk around all the bolt holes and the drain hole. This will help keep water out when you drown your jeep later! :P It should seal when you put the rockers back on. For added sealing power you can caulk the bolts and the inside of the sandwich plates when you install them. |
7: Put the rocker back on the jeep and pre-load it the same as before. Install all hardware and sandwich plates. If you’re installing a Shrockworks set, their sandwich plates are labeled F, M, R for front, middle and rear. Torque all bolts down nice and tight, and make sure you put a fender washer, lock washer, and nylock nut (in that order) on each one. |
8: Run a *small* bead along the tops of the rockers to seal them to the body. This won’t keep water out ’cause that can still come up from below, but it will help keep grime, mud, and small rocks from creeping it’s way through the tops and getting wedged between the rockers and the body of the jeep. If you take a look at a stock set of fenders that have seen off-road use you will see what I mean. If the acrylic bead isn’t perfect don’t fret! Just use your finger and smooth it out, periodically wiping the excess from your finger to a paper towel. Don’t use a paper towel to wipe the acrylic off the rockers though! If it’s leaving edges just let it dry completely then pick them off. Don’t try to clean it up too much while it’s wet as it’s a losing battle. |
| 9: Reinstall your carpet if you have it, and use the floor jack to remove the jack stands. Do all the same steps to the other side and you’re done! |
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You will have to let the acrylic set before you go out to avoid getting a bunch of dust in it. To fully set it needs to set for 72 hours, but I drove my jeep less than 24 hours later and it looked fine. It was still a little tacky in some spots, but dust didn’t stick all over. You might want to use stainless hardware for the inside bolts as well. I didn’t, but I plan on lining my tub as soon as possible. If they rust up real bad I will replace them later.
If you would like some more information on the rockers like measurements, etc. please post up in the forum in the fabrication section. I will get back to you as soon as I can! Please remember to visit the gallery for this one, there are lots of pictures not shown in the write-up (including a drawing!). There are some of the rockers before paint, painting, etc. Have a look here.
Also, a big thanks goes out to Craig from Krossloch Industries for helping me bend the tubing, and to Ian for the awesome welding job.
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
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-Davin (Raskull)
5 Comments
July 13th, 2008
| If you wheel your jeep it’s a very good idea to make sure you, your passengers, and the people you wheel with are recovering vehicles in a safe manner. Result to do so could result in some very nasty injuries or death. This is a very vast subject, and if I’m honest, I really don’t have enough experience to talk about it in great length. I have been wheeling for only two years, so I will talk about this fairly lightly and only touch on some basic safety tips, recovery methods, and some tricks I’ve learned. |
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First: Here’s a list of the items I feel are essential to have on the trail. There is quite a few and it may not be necessary to carry all of them alone, but at least make sure your party has a good set of tools and safety items to get you out of whatever mess you might get into. I will place stars by each one as a rating of how important I think they are to have.
*** - Essential, ** - At least half the vehicles need this, * - At least one vehicle needs this.
*** Proper recovery points on the front AND rear of each vehicle.
*** 20,000 lb+ Looped end (no metal) Kinetic recovery straps (2″ wide is best)
*** 3/4″ Clevis (D-Ring)
*** Lots of water and some food
*** Working CB radio
*** First aid kit
*** Fire Extinguisher
*** Warm dry clothes
*** Gloves
*** Tire pressure gauge
*** Breaker bar w/ proper socket for your lug nuts
*** Tree saver (if you have a winch)
*** 19,000 lb+ Snatch block (if you have a winch)
*** Winch line weight (if you have a winch)
** Recovery and Repair tools
** Air compressor
** Knife
** Winch
** Garbage bags (Tread Lightly!)
** Waterproof matches
** Paper towel and toilet paper
* Bottle jack
* Shovel
* Axe
* Ratchet strap
* 48″ farm fack (Hi-Lift)
* Flashlight
* Chainsaw
* Fluids (oil, gear oil, antifreeze, etc)
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This is not a “complete” list of things you should bring. A bit of experience and some common sense will show you what else you may need. Your trail tools will undoubtedly grow a bit each time you need tools on the trail. You might need a tool that someone else has, so you should add that to your list for next time. I didn’t bother adding spare parts to the list because that list changes with every vehicle, but it’s something you need to consider. With a Jeep TJ it’s a good idea to carry a few items that can be had for cheap like u-joints, axle shafts, and control arms. Control arms (stock ones) and axle shafts can be taken from the junkyard for next to nothing, and a couple good u-joints (one for your front axle shaft, one for your driveshafts) can be had for $30 or so.
A few notes on some particular items:
Recovery straps: I like the Silver Pro-Comp 2″ wide ones myself. They stretch well when used to get a good kinetic jerk going that makes recovery much easier. A real stiff strap that does not do this is much harder to use, and is a lot tougher on your recovery points and frame mounts. I have personally see a non-stretchy one almost rip grade eight bolts out of the stock front TJ frame. If the bolts weren’t grade eight, the tow hook may have become a flying hunk of metal.
Recovery points: Don’t even think of using a small 1″ class I receiver hitch for this. It is extremely dangerous! I don’t even like a large class III hitches because they are only rated to tow 5,000 lbs. when recovering a Jeep from the mud it’s very easy to get a pull of well over 5,000 lbs.
Chain Saw: On a well used trail it’s probably not going to be needed.. but out here in Alberta there are thousands of cutlines on Crown Land through the woods that not many people use. They are legal to wheel on, but there are often fallen trees crossing the trail. If we can climb over them we always do because that’s part of the fun. If you can leave that obstacle for the next person, all the better! If it’s too big and will block the trail for everyone it’s better to cut it and move it than to make a bypass.
CB Radios/Communication: This is a BIG one. If you’re the trail lead/guide I would recommend you make sure before the trip that those without a CB radio are not allowed to come. I know it sounds harsh, but when you are wheeling with people you cannot communicate with it can cause many issues. You simply need to be able to talk to people on the trail to discuss obstacles, routes, where to turn, when someone is stuck, etc, etc. I understand that it may not be realistic for you to deny someone a day on the trail for this, but in reality.. a good CB setup can be had for about $100 or less and there is simply no excuse for not having one.
Winch: This will really depend on the difficulty of trail you ad your group are running, but I placed it in the two-star category because simply put: The more the better. It’s not often you will run into a spot where one vehicle with a winch cannot turn around and winch everyone else though, but it does happen. Not only that, when there is a tough winch-through spot it’s nice to have everyone winch themselves through instead of working the snot out of one winch. You never know what sort of trouble you may get into, and having at LEAST one winch in the group is near essential, and having more than one is even better.
Air compressor: No, I’m not talking about something for running air tools. Airing down on the trail is essential! Just something small and cheap will do for airing up your tires after the trail. It doesn’t have to be fast, but reliability is always a good thing. I use the Superflow MV50 in my jeep and it has been working flawlessly for over a year now. It only cost me $130 and I bought it at 4 Wheel Parts.. You can likely find the same thing or something similar at your local 4×4 shop.
Ratchet strap: This one is not obvious, and please make sure you never use it for vehicle recovery. A ratchet strap is useful for re-seating a bead on a tire. Generally with a decent air compressor you can just pull the tire toward the bead to get it to seal well enough to hold air and re-seat the bead. But if it needs some extra “help”, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and tighten it up. Make sure you stop the air flow once it seats to take off the strap. You don’t want to be pumping the tire up to pressure with a tight ratchet strap on it!
This is all I am going to add for now. I will continue to add more to this article later on. I will be adding some good recovery methods and tips, and more later.
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
-Davin (Raskull)
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No Comments
July 13th, 2008
If you wheel your Jeep TJ long enough you *will* bend a stock fender. Unless you’ve got some fancy bumper that sticks out there to protect them of course. They are out there in a pretty vulnerable spot, and once they are bent they will never look perfect again. Oh well, I guess that’s a good excuse to buy tube fenders! Anyways, I figured I would get mine looking as good as I can for now, and this is how I did it. |
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Tools:
Hi-Lift Jack
Block of Wood (12″ long or so)
Parts:
n/a
Time:
10 minutes
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1: This is a real quick and easy one folks. Just grab your hi-lift and your block of wood. Place the block of wood under the fender lengthwise to increase the hi-lift’s footprint, and jack it up until the fender bends back to shape. I can’t really tell you exactly how much to lift it because it will depend on how badly it’s bent, etc. On mine I lifted it up so the fender was bent upwards a little PAST level. I let it sit this way for about 15 seconds to fatigue the material into shape a bit. Once I let off the hi-lift it was as straight as can be! Note: This picture was taken for reference only.. the passenger side was the one that was bent. |
| Before |
After |
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Well, I’m happy with the results and so was my buddy Kyle (o-min). He liked the results enough that he asked me to do his as well, and his turned out just as nice. Hope this helps you guys out!
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
-Davin (Raskull)
1 Comment
July 12th, 2008
Any time you install a lift you will need to set your toe in. Once that is done, you will likely need to recenter your steering wheel. It’s a very simple process, but you will want to have a friend help you as it makes things much simpler and faster. |
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Tools:
13mm ratchet
13mm wrench
Pipe wrench (large is better. 18+” is good)
A friend
Parts:
n/a
Time:
> 30 minutes
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1: Park your Jeep TJ with the tires as straight as you can. Your steering box is connected to the drag link via the pitman arm. We’re going to be adjusting the length of the drag link in this write-up. Locate the adjuster sleeve on the drag link and loosen the bolts that hold the clamps together. You do not need to remove them. |
2: Have a friend take a seat in the jeep and relax. He/She won’t be workin’ very hard for this. Grab your pipe wrench and turn the adjuster sleeve until the steering wheel is as straight as you can. Once that is done you will need to tighten the bolts on the sleeve clamps back up and take a test drive. If you notice it’s still a bit off while driving, try again. |
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That’s it.. pretty simple huh? As I said it may take a couple tries to get it feeling right. Remember you will need to perform this task every time you adjust your jeeps height (up or down) and whenever you set your toe-in. The article for setting your toe-in can be found here.
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
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-Davin (Raskull)
No Comments
July 12th, 2008
If you’ve done any amount of lift (even just replacing sagged springs with newer ones), you will need to do a basic alignment of your steering. If your toe in is not set up correctly you will experience uneven tire wear and odd on road behavior. Once you are done this write-up, have a look here to set your steering wheel straight. |
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Tools:
Tape measure
13mm ratchet
13mm wrench
Pipe wrench (large is better. 18+” is good)
A friend
Floor/Bottle Jack (optional)
Jack Stand (optional)
Parts:
None
Time:
30 minutes
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| 1: Park your Jeep TJ on level ground with the wheels straight. Leave it in gear, pull your e-brake and chock your tires. You may be doing some serious pulling on it and you don’t want it moving on you. Your tie rod is the one that goes from steering knuckle to steering knuckle. The length of this effects how your tires are aligned to eachother. Imagine walking pigeon toed or the opposite with your toes outwards; same idea here. |
2: When setting your toe in there are two common ways to do it. You can do it with the tires on the ground or floating in the air. I find that setting it up with the tires o the ground works just as easy and takes less time so that’s how I do mine. If you would prefer to put the tires in the air go ahead and do so at this time. This supposedly helps you more easily see small adjustments to the toe-in… but I haven’t really had problems with it on the ground. Start off by grabbing your front bumper and pushing down/up on it a few times to let the tires settle and sit naturally. This will help with a more accurate setup. Loosen the bolts that hold the tie rod to the tie rod ends. You do not need to remove them, just loosen them so we can adjust the tie rod. |
3: You will need to measure from the front most point on the tires, and the back most. Start by finding a lug on the forward portion of the tire to hook the tape measure on, and measure across to the same spot on the opposite tire. Write this measurement down. As an example, we’ll say it’s 42 3/4″ (42.75). Then you measure the back (THE SAME EXACT WAY). Hook the tape on exactly the same lug style (many tires have different sizes of lugs in patterns, the key is to get the same “spot” as the front). You also need to make sure you measure the back from the back most part! As an example, we’ll say the back is 43 1/4″ (43.25). In our example, your front is 1/2″ smaller than the rear. This means your tires are toed in too much. |
4: Ideally you should have your toe in adjusted to 1/8″ of an inch shorter than the back. In our example, about 43″ for the front and 43 1/8″ for the back would be good. Whichever way you need to adjust will depend on your results of the measurement. Rotating the tie rod forward (as if it was spinning the same direction as the tires when moving forward) will DECREASE the length of it. Rotating it backwards will INCREASE the length. Grab your pipe wrench and grab the tie rod anywhere close to the middle, and rotate the tie rod in the desired direction. This may be *very* difficult depending on how rusty/old/seized it is. When I helped a friend with an ‘05 Rubicon we needed two pipe wrenches and two guys to move it. We sprayed the ends down well with WD-40 and after we got it to move around a bit it loosened up considerably. |
5: It will likely take you a few tries to get it right. Take a measurement, adjust a bit, take another measurement, etc. Once you are satisfied you have it at or very close to 1/8th of an inch, tighten up the 13mm bolts on each end of the tie rod and you’re done. |
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Now that you have your toe in set up correctly you can go out and test drive the jeep!
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
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-Davin (Raskull)
4 Comments
July 8th, 2008
This is a photo from last summer, but it still resides as one my favourites. The photo was taken out near Caroline, Alberta. It was taken in the pouring rain which always makes for a great shot!
I kept this one fairly simple. I just basically just darkened the corners a bit and added the myjeeptj.com logo. For the 16×9 resolutions I just did a little copying and darkening for the sides to make up the extra screen space.
My friend Alex (thinko) took the photo, so a thank you needs to go out to him! He also took an amazing shot of Barry’s YJ, and even though it’s not a TJ I’m tempted to make a background out of it anyway! …Those with a keen eye will notice I used this same photo for one of the rotating banner images at the top…

Choose a size below.
(ie: right click -> save as) (firefox: right click -> save link as)
16:9 widescreen
1920×1200
1680×1050
1440×900
4:3 fullscreen
1600×1200
1280×960
1152×864
1024×768
5:4 fullscreen
1280×1024
If you have a *really* good image of your TJ or other jeep, please leave a comment on this post with a link to a high resolution shot and I can make a background out of it as well! (3 megapixel or 2048×1536 at least please)
- Davin (Raskull)
No Comments
July 6th, 2008
| Your unit bearings are the main bearing that keeps your wheels turning on the outer part of your axle. They will need to be replaced once in a while. The time frame for this will depend on how often you wheel, the mileage on your Jeep TJ, and many other factors like how often you see mud, etc. when it comes to replacing them you will need a little grunt work, but it’s generally a job anyone with basic tools can do. You will save yourself some time (likely, depending on your time to get to/from the mechanic), and some money. Ok, enough babbling, on to the install! |
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Tools:
Ratchet
13mm 12 point socket
13mm wrench
3/4″ deep socket
Breaker bar
36mm 6 point socket
1/4″ 12 point wrench
Pliers or Needle nose pliers
BFH (big f’in hammer)
Metal chisel
Floor jack or bottle jack
Jack stands (at least one, two is better)
Parts:
Unit bearing(s)
Bearing grease
Time:
1-1.5 hours
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1: Park your Jeep TJ, leave it in gear and put on the e-brake. Chock your rear tires. Crack the lug nuts on the side you intend to work on first. Jack the tire up off the ground by your axle and place a jack stand under it. Remove the tire and place it underneath the axle. |
2: Remove the two caliper bolts from the back of the caliper with a 13mm wrench. Once you crack them they should turn out by hand as they are greased (or should be). Keep them clean and set them aside. You can then grab the top of the caliper and pivot it outwards to remove it from the rotor. Try not to leave it hang by the brake line.. you can set it on the tire, grab a wood block to set it on, tie it up with zip ties to something.. whatever you can find. |
| 3: Remove the rotor. Check the wheel studs for retaining clips. If there are still some on there you can remove them with some pliers or side cutters. The rotor should just pull off by hand, but it might not. If you are having troubles getting it off by hand, some taps on the face of it (in between the studs not where the brake pads touch) with a hammer should do the trick to break loose the rust holding it on. |
4: Remove the cotter pin that holds in the slotted retainer. Careful not to lose the spring behind the retainer when you remove it. You can now remove the axle nut. These are torqued down to 175ft lbs, so you will need that 36mm 6 point socket and a breaker bar. You also might need a little more leverage on the breaker bar.. a piece of tubing of a hi-lift handle works well. If you need a way to keep the axle shaft from spinning while you break it, I’ve got two simple methods for you. If you have a front locker, put it in 4wd and lock the front. That will allow the traction of the rear tires touching the ground to keep the front from spinning. The second method is to place a pry bar through your u-joint yoke so it will hit on the axle knucle stopping it from spinning. Once it’s cracked remove it and the washer behind it. |
5: Turn your attention to the back of the steering knuckle. There are three 12pt 13mm bolts that hold the unit bearing on. Remove these… they are usually very tight from the factory. It says 75 ft lbs in the service manual, but I don’t believe it. I used a 12 point wrench and another larger wrench (box end) on the end of that one as leverage. Probably not something that’s *good* for the wrenches.. but it works good! |
6: You can then remove the unit bearing. It might come off by hand depending on the age of your Jeep TJ and the type of wheeling you do. If not, I’ve got three methods that will hopefully help you out.
method 1: Put the tire back one and use a large breaker bar to pry the tire off. You can pry from anything you need, like a lower control arm, etc. Be careful and make sure you are prying on something strong!
method 2: Use a hammer and a steel chisel to tap around the edge of the unit bearing. It does take some effort, and it will likely scar up your dust plate a little bit.. but it works great.
method 3: I cannot take credit for this one. I found this method over on Stu Olsen’s site, and he gives credit to his friend Blaine (mrblaine on jeepforum). So, thanks to both of you! Find an appropriate size nut and bolt (grade 8 is better). Place one side of the bolt on the inside of the steering knuckle right beside where the axle shaft disappears into the axle tube. The other side should be resting on the outer axle shaft yoke that holds the u-joint. You can adjust the bolt length with the nut to get it to rest in there. You can then turn the steering wheel to force outwards pressure on the yoke, which will unseat the unit bearing. If you are having troubles visualizing what I mean, click the fullsize version of the image above.
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7: You can then pull the unit bearing out. This will require holding the axle shaft in while you pull it out to separate it from the shaft. You can just leave the shaft and dust sheild hanging for now. Grab your new unit bearing and grease the contact point a little bit so it won’t sieze up with rust for next time! Grease up your axle shaft splines as well, and put the new one on. Line up the splines, and the dust plate and put the three bolts back in that hold it to the knuckle and tighten them to 75 ft lbs. |
8: I’m not going to write too much about putting it all back together because you’ve just learned how all this stuff works! Put your large washer, and axle nut (175 ft lbs) back on. Next is the spring washer and slotted retainer with cotter pin. Then you can put your rotor and brake caliper back on. The brake caliper should be placed on the downside first, then swung upwards.. the exact opposite of taking it off. You then put the two 13mm bolts back in and torque them to only 11 ft lbs. Reinstall your tire and tighten up the lug nuts a bit (criss-cross pattern) just so the rim is seated properly. Put your jeep back on all fours, and tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft lbs using a criss cross pattern as well. |
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Congratulations, you’re a pro; you’re ready to do the other side now! Aside from a couple hitches (like getting the damned unit bearing off) this was a pretty straight forward and easy install. Unit bearings can be had brand new for about $80-$100, and I would hazard a guess that the labour alone to take a job like this to a shop would be more than that.. so pat yourself on the back and have a beer! Hopefully your jeep’s nasty noise has gone away.
For a little extra entertainment.. have a look at my before and after videos of the bearings. :P
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep TJ. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad!
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-Davin (Raskull)
6 Comments
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