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Detroit EZ-Locker in a Dana 35

June 15th, 2008
For those of you that are into wheeling (and I expect that you are if you’re at this site reading about Jeeps), you probably already know the importance a locker can play in your off-road adventures. I wasn’t planning on locking my dana 35 rear axle, but a deal came a long I couldn’t pass up. A local jeeper was selling a Detroit EZ-Locker for a d35 for $200 CDN cash. I quickly snapped up the deal, and went home to see how I made out. I went to the detroit website to get a parts listing of the unit. If I was as smart as I like to think I am I would have done this before giving the guy my money. Turns out the locker was missing the small springs and caps, and I could not install it. After several attempts at getting in touch with him (he was clearly screening my calls and avoiding me), I gave up and looked at other options. I talked to my buddy Moe from the jeep club who works at Alberta Driveline. He was able to order a service kit for the locker for $10! SCORE! It took a couple weeks to come in, and I got it installed yesterday.

Tools:

  • Ratchet
  • 13mm socket
  • Gasket scraper
  • 1/4″ 12 point wrench
  • Pliers or Needle nose pliers
  • BFH (big f’in hammer)
  • Steel Chisel
  • Pick tool (small long flathead screwdriver works)
  • Catch pan
  • Funnel
  • Fluid pump (for refilling your diff)
  • Locker Parts:

  • 2x Side gears
  • 2x Clutch gears
  • 2x Spacers
  • 4x Pins
  • 4x Springs
  • 4x Spring Caps
  • Parts:

  • Assembly or automotive grease
  • Gear oil (2L)
  • RTV gasket maker
  • Time:

  • 2-3 hours
  • IMG_0006 IMG_0005
    IMG_00041: Start off by checking your locker for all its parts, and ensure you have the consumables (gear oil, rtv, grease) and tools you will need. Park your jeep on level ground, chock your front tires and crack the rear lugnuts. Jack up the rear end of the jeep and place jack stands under the frame just high enough to get the back tires off the ground. I say under the frame because it will allow your axle to droop so your pumpkin isn’t hiding behind the gas tank. Remove the rear tires.
    IMG_00092: Place a catch pan under your rear differential, loosen the top bolt, and remove all the other bolts holding your diff cover on. Use your BFH (big f’in hammer) and a chisel to tap around the edges of the cover until it breaks free of the gasket. This will spill fluid (into your catch pan I hope). You can then remove the last bolt and pull the cover off by hand to let the fluid completely drain.
    IMG_00133: If you can see the 1/4″ bolt that holds the carrier shaft in place go ahead and remove it. If you cannot see it, you will need to turn the carrier so you can get access to it. This can be done two ways. The easy way is by simply turning your jeep on and letting the rear axle turn half a turn (or as much as you need) by “driving” it while it’s on the jack stands. PLEASE NOTE: This is not a very safe thing to do, so make sure you are safe in doing it. Make sure no one is in front or under the vehicle. Make sure you do not let it run more than a rotation or as much as needed (remember there’s no oil in there). I do not take responsibility for any damage you case by doing it this way. The hard way is by rotating the carrier by hand. You will need to use a pry bar or something similar to move it. You could also turn the driveshaft by hand with a clamp on the u-joint yoke or possibly a good filter wrench around the shaft. Once the 1/4″ bolt is removed the carrier shaft will slide out.
    IMG_00184: With your carrier shaft out you can then turn your wheels by hand and the spider gears will fall out. Make sure you get the washer for each spider gear out of there too. Your spider gears are the top and bottom gears in that group of four gears.
    IMG_00195: Go to one of your drums and push inward on the wheel mounting surface. This should push your axle shaft inwards allowing the c-clip that holds in the axle shafts to drop into the differential. If it doesn’t drop in you can push in and turn it at the same time. Repeat for the other side. Now that the c-clips are out, you can push outward on the axle shaft from inside your differential and the side gears should come out. On the outside of the side gears there are two washers. They are called thrust washers. Make sure you don’t lose these, as you *will need* to use them in the locker install.
    IMG_00266: Now that we’ve got your D35 all torn apart, you’re ready to install the locker! Leave your axle shafts hanging out a bit so they are not protruding into the carrier. Apply a liberal amount of grease to one of the side gears on the locker. Place a thrust washer on it, and put some more grease on top of the washer. Grease the splines of the side gear as well.
    IMG_00307: Insert the side gear into the ring side (driver’s side) of the carrier. It will sit in place on it’s own. Now you can push the axle shaft back in slowly and turn the side gear by hand to intersect the splines. A friend helps for this. Once the side gear is on the axle shaft, and it is pushed all the way in, you can install the c-clip back on the shaft. Sharply pull out on the axle shaft and it will seat the c-clip in it’s place. Grease up your other side gear and thrust washer and insert it the same way. Do not push the 2nd axle shaft in or install the c-clip yet.
    IMG_00328: We’re moving along now, but it gets a little trickier from here on. Grease up a clutch gear and place a spacer inside it. The clutch gears are the other (inner) large gears, and the spacers are the round parts that fit inside it. Place two pins in the two deeper slots that will hold the springs. If you’ve done this correctly the pins will sink right into the clutch gear so nothing is protruding the inner edge. This is important because there is not enough room inside the carrier to insert the last clutch gear if the pins are protruding. Do the same with the other side. If all is going well your locker should be “fully” in the carrier with an axle shaft and c-clip installed on the *ring side only*. Like so: Thrust washer -> Side gear -> Clutch w/ spacer and pins -> 2nd Clutch w/ spacer and pins -> 2nd Side gear -> Thrust washer. Everything should already be greased of course.
    IMG_00369: Do a quick check of your remaining parts.. you should only have a c-clip, and springs/caps left to install. This next part is kind of a pain in the ass, but you can manage. You will need to adjust both spacers so they are towards the ring side as much as possible. It will take some wedging of your fingers and a small screwdriver will help. Once you have both spacers towards the ring side as much as they will go, you can go ahead and get the axle shaft into the splines on the remaining side gear. Once again a friend helps here, but make sure he doesn’t pinch your fingers as you line up the side gear. Trust me.. it doesn’t feel good. :)
    IMG_003810: Now it’s time to install that last c-clip. Rotate the left axle shaft until you can see the “c-clip install slot”. This can easily be done by hand by just rotating the left side of the locker. You can open up that slot a little extra by pushing the clutch gear away from the side gear. Then you will need to line up the axle shaft so you can see the slot that holds the c-clip through that slot. A picture is worth a thousand words I guess, have a look at the photo here to see. Install the c-clip then pull outward sharply on the shaft from the wheel mounting surface to seat it.
    IMG_004211: Seat the clutch gear back on the side gear so your gap is in the middle of the clutch gears. Insert the caps into the springs. Make sure your clutch gears have their “c-clip install slot” on the same side, then choose one of the four pins and use a pick tool or another pointy object (I used a small flat head screwdriver and it worked well) to move it from the “spring side” to it’s home in the other side of the opposite clutch gear. Insert one of the springs with the cap towards the inside in the slot that the pin you just moved was. Use your pointy tool to push in and fully insert the spring into it’s home. Rotate the locker by hand and repeat this step for all four pins.
    IMG_004412: Almost done! With all four pins/springs installed you just need to get your carrier shaft back in. To do this you need to move the spacers apart again so one is on each side, leaving a gap in the middle. This is a little tricky. Like street tires in the mud, they will be all greased up and slippery, and there’s not much room to get your fingers in there. With the spacers in their permanent home, you can go ahead and insert the carrier shaft and re-install the 1/4″ 12 point bolt that holds it in place. Now is a good time to make sure everything is installed correctly. You should be able to turn an axle by hand backwards from the drum and the other side should turn as well. If you go forwards however the locker should disengage and click forwards on it’s own. If it does not disengage don’t worry too much about it. There is currently no resistance on the other wheel so it might not disengage. A good test for this would be to install a tire on one side, get it of the jack stand so the tire sits on the ground, then turn the drum on the other side forward. With the other tire on the ground you should be able to disengage the locker by hand and hear it click forwards.
    IMG_004513: Place a rag inside and around your gears to keep the gunk and debris from getting in there. Grab your gasket scraper and clean up the mounting surface on the diff, and the cover itself.
    IMG_004714: Grab your RTV Gasket maker and apply a liberal bead to the mounting surface of your diff cover. Spread it around with your finger and make sure you have RTV on both sides of each bolt hole. The packaging for my RTV says to use a 1/16″ to 1/4″ thick bead. Put the diff cover in it’s place and finger tighten each bolt until you can see the RTV start to squeeze out a bit. You will need to let it sit like this for one hour to “set”.
    IMG_004815: Get a beer and BBQ yourself a steak for a job well done. Mine was friggin’ delicious! Nurse your skinned knuckles and pinched fingers while you wait for the RTV to set… Once the hour is up tighten the bolts on your diff cover to 55 ft lbs, and fill it with gear oil. Reinstall your fill plug, tires, and get that jeep off it’s jack stands!
    IMG_005016: Check to make sure you’re not running over anything (like the catch pan), then take it for a test drive. The differential will be solidly locked when moving straight forward, and you will likely notice immediately that it feels very different. Take a sharp corner at a low speed with a tiny bit of throttle, and you will feel the locker disengage. You will be able to hear the locker ratchet forward as the outer tire free-wheels faster. You are now locked and ready to rock! I bought the locker without packaging so I didn’t get a sticker… but I did grab a detroit locker sticker from a jeep show a couple years back so that had to get installed under the hood with the rest. I know it’s not a “EZ Locker” sticker, but it will do!
    IMG_0005 Keep in mind that the detroit is known for it’s not-great manners on the road and it will want to sometimes jerk a little bit while it disengages at the start of a corner. When it does this it’s natural to want to jam in the clutch and slow down or stop to prevent damage. I have learned however that if you “stick with it” and keep driving normally around the corner it will only jerk once then immediately disengage as it should. You also need to make sure you do not give the jeep a bunch of throttle while cornering. Your front tires will be steering your jeep, while the back tires will lock up and want to go the direction they are currently facing instead of around the corner. This effect can be felt in a small dose on purpose, but I can assure you it would not be good for the jeep or differential to really give’er. I’m sure that each install will act a little different, and it will definitely take some getting used to on the road, but despite my rantings, it is quite live-able. Really though, if you’re not willing to put up with a little bit of noise and your jeep acting different on the street this locker is not for you. I have yet to use it off-road, (only had it for one day as of this writing), but I am sure I will be very pleased with it’s performance. I did test out the “donut-making” abilities of it in a gravel parking lot, and it brought a wicked smile to my face. I can’t wait to get it out on the trails, and I will be reporting back here when I do, so keep an eye out for that.

    UPDATE! I had a chance to go out wheeling this weekend in some great test-worthy terrain. We found *lots* of mud, some really great wash-out/technical stuff and a little tricky hill climb. The locker was almost completely invisible on the trail as far as noise, and handling of the jeep is concerned. I did notice my turning radius on slick terrain to be slightly-but-notably wider. It *did* however perform way beyond my expectations. I purposefully chose a couple optional loops that I knew would get me into trouble, and to my surprise I got through all but one with my near-to-stock jeep. I had a rear tire in the air at least a couple times, and it was a new experience being able to move out under my own power in a situation like that. In mud it’s just… awesome. You can pull through mud holes with less effort and speed than normal, and it gives you confidence to get into worse trouble if you are like me. :)

    For a first impression overall.. I say it’s the best $200 modification I have done to date hands down. I still don’t like it on the street much.. but I am getting better and better at driving with it, and I can definitely put up with some noises for the traction gained off-road. I hope that helps!

    Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad!

    -Davin (Raskull)

    Myjeeptj.com desktop background #2

    June 15th, 2008

    I have a build thread going on jeepforum.com. I posted an image of the wheeling trip out to Big Bear somewhere in the thread, and I got so many comments on the picture I decided I need to make a background out of it. You’ll have to pick one and take a closer look because the thumbnail really doesn’t do the photo justice.

    myjeeptj bg 02

    Choose a size below.
    (ie: right click -> save as) (firefox: right click -> save link as)

    16:9 widescreen
    1920×1200
    1680×1050
    1440×900
    4:3 fullscreen
    1600×1200
    1280×960
    1152×864
    1024×768
    5:4 fullscreen
    1280×1024

    If you have a *really* good image of your TJ or other jeep, please leave a comment on this post with a link to a high resolution shot and I can make a background out of it as well! (3 megapixel or 2048×1536 at least please)

    - Davin (Raskull)

    Detroit EZ Locker

    June 14th, 2008

    Installed a Detroit EZ Locker in the D35 today. Install went smooth, and it makes for real easy donuts on gravel. :P Keep and eye out for an installation write-up soon, and once I wheel it I’ll post up a review too.

    The install took about 2 1/2 hours, but I wasn’t in a hurry at all. If I did it again now I’m sure I could do it in an hour.

    Normally I wouldn’t bother locking the D35 because of the imminent 8.8 upgrade and the fact that it’s not really a great idea.. but I couldn’t resist. I picked up the locker from a fellow jeeper brand new for $200 CDN cash.

    -Davin (Raskull)

    ZJ Tie Rod Conversion for a TJ

    June 11th, 2008
    Here’s a simple upgrade that you will love. Most of us that wheel our TJs have personally experienced or at least seen a bent tie rod on the trail. It’s a very common occurrence, because the stock tie rods are not that strong. They stick out in front of your differential, ready to be smacked on that rock, ledge or tree stump. When your tie rod gets bent, it will severely effect your alignment (toe-in), and you may not be able to drive your rig until it’s straightened. Many methods have been used on the trail to straighten them.. hook up a winch, jack it up from the bottom, etc etc. Once you have it straight enough to drive and get back home, you might want to check into a setup like this.

    Tools:

  • Ratchet
  • 19mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 5/16″ wrench
  • Plyers or Needle nose plyers
  • BFH (big f’in hammer)
  • Grease gun w/ grease
  • Parts:

  • 1x ZJ tie rod w/ sleeve
  • 2x Castle nuts
  • 1x Rubber boot
  • 1x Zerk fitting
  • 2x Cotter pins
  • NAPA part numbers:

  • 269-6085 (Tie rod)
  • 269-2788 (Tie rod end)
  • ES2079S (Sleeve)
  • Time:

  • 30 minutes
  • img_0015 img_0020
    img_00191: As always, make sure you’ve got all your parts and tools before you start! You will need to do a toe-in adjustment afterwards as well. You don’t need a tie rod puller for this, but it wouldn’t hurt. This install was done without one, and it went smoothly. Start off by removing the cotter pin that holds the castle nut in place on the driver’s side. Once that is out, loosen the castle nut a few turns, but do not remove it.
    img_00222: The ends of the tie rod are tapered. That means they are “pressed” into the tapered hole on the steering knuckle from tightening the castle nuts down. You can use a tie rod puller for this, but I find a BFH to be just as useful and much quicker. Grab your BFH (ok it doesn’t need to be that big really), and hit the top of the castle nut to pop the tapered end out of the steering knuckle. It might be easy, or it might take a few good hits depending on the amount of rust in that area, and how tight it’s in there.
    img_00213: Repeat steps one and two on the other side of the tie rod. Be careful with the hammer here as you don’t want to bend your drag link (the bar that goes from the steering box to the passenger side steering knuckle). Remove both castle nuts and you now have the old tie rod out and are ready to work on the new one.
    img_00314: Place both the tie rods on the workbench and smile at how awesome your new one is. Grip the new one and feel how beefy it is. Think up some way to bend it on the trail in spite of it’s strength. Now would be a good time to set the new tie rod to the same length as the old one to make your alignment afterwards a little easier. Adjust the sleeve on the driver’s side (the side with the zerk fitting) so it’s got equal thread on either side, and pull up the clamps onto the sleeve. Adjust the new tie rod so the bolts are facing the same direction as the old one for easy installation. Tighten the clamps just tight enough that it won’t be moving around on you while you handle it.
    img_00325: Install the rubber boot, then the zerk fitting on the driver’s side with a 5/16″ wrench. Don’t over tighten the zerk fitting, and a little loctite here wouldn’t hurt if you have it. Don’t grease it yet, we’ll do that once it’s installed.
    img_00356: Crawl back under your jeep and insert both ends of the new tie rod in their places. You might have to get a friend to get in the jeep and move the steering wheel a bit to get it in place. Put the castle nuts on and tighten them to 55 ft. lbs. You may have to use more or less than 55 ft lbs to get the castle nut to line up correctly for insertion of the cotter pins.
    img_00407: Insert the cotter pins and bend the ends back. Grease both ends of the tie rod until you can see the rubber boots start to bulge a little bit.
    img_00438: You now need to set your toe in and tighten up the clamps on the sleeve. Make sure when you set the position of your clamps they are in the “up” position as to not get knocked around. I don’t have a write-up for doing this yet, but it is very easy. Here’s a good write-up at 4×4xplor.com on doing so until I add one for myjeeptj.com.
    img_0048 Now you have a beefy tie rod! My brother paid $180 for his brand new at NAPA, and I’m sure it could be had for much cheaper if you looked for a ZJ in the junkyard. The stock tie rod is a 7/8″ diameter hollow tube, and the ZJ tie rod is a 1″ solid rod. As you can probably imagine it’s a heck of a lot stronger. Good luck, and don’t try too hard to bend the new one!

    UPDATE: This modification will also work for a Jeep TJ Rubicon. (Thanks Colin!)

    Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad!

    -Davin (Raskull)

    Stripped knuckles on D30 front axle

    June 4th, 2008
    erickpl (Paul) with the help of mrblaine’s product from jeepforum.com posted a nice write-up that can potentially save you a lot of money. If you’ve managed to strip the threads on your knuckles that hold your disc brake calipers on, read on. These two bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 11 ft. lbs according to factory specs. If they are tightened too much they can strip the threads in the cast knuckles fairly easily. I contacted Paul and asked him if it would be okay for me to post this write-up here, and he obliged, so here it is! It has been a while since that thread was updated, so I can’t speak on behalf of mrblaine on the price, but Paul paid $35.00 for the kit including shipping. If you are in need of a kit, please send a private message to mrblaine on jeepforum.com. He is a helpful guy and will set you on the right track.

    Tools:

  • Drill
  • 1/2″ wrench
  • Crescent wrench
  • Torque wrench
  • Lug wrench
  • Parts that come in the kit:

  • 1x drill bit
  • 1x hole tap
  • 4x metal sleeves that calipers will bolt to
  • 4x new bolts 10.9 strength
  • 4x stainless nuts
  • 1x small tube of red loctite
  • DSCN0222

    Last week I changed my brake pads and rotors for the front of my 97 TJ. When I removed my driver side caliper, the lower caliper bolt was VERY loose and came out by hand. Uh oh. Looking at the bolt, it was painfully clear that the bolt and or knuckle were stripped. I tried the upper bolt and it did the same thing. So… stripped knuckle.

    So I began the search to fix this problem, thinking I would need to replace the entire knuckle, which would be a LOT of work on the front end. I then found mrblaine. He told me about his new product that addresses this VERY common problem.

    Due to the soft metal nature of the knuckle and the super small threads on the caliper bolts, this could happen easily enough and he’s built up a kit that addresses not one, not two, but all four caliper bolts, so I picked one up.

    The kit is pictured above. Inside the kit was the above listed items.

    DSCN0225

    To get started, all I had to do was remove the tire, caliper and rotor just as if this were part of a regular brake job. I’ll cover one side, but it is done to both.

    DSCN0226

    The caliper mounting bolts will no longer be needed, so I got rid of em.

    Hang the caliper out of the way using a coat hanger or something similar.

    DSCN0228

    Once you have a good line to the caliper bolt holes, load up the provided drill bit into your trusty drill. If you have a weak battery powered one, I’d recommend a corded drill. I have a strong cordless drill and it worked wonderfully. This bit is VERY strong and eats through the metal quickly. I’d still recommend a full charge before starting though. Note, you do NOT need to coat the bit or the knuckle hole in oil. The sharp, strong bit and soft metal makes this unnecessary and will lead to issues later in the install process.

    Drill the bit straight through the hole, pressing gently so as not to force the bit through to fast and have a rough cut. Be sure to not do this at an angle. New bolts will not fit if you do. :)

    DSCN0229

    Once the holes are drilled, use the provided tap and thread these holes. I did this from the inside towards me so I’d be sure the thread inserts would go the way I wanted to.

    DSCN0232

    Once the tap is all the way through, reverse it out slowly and carefully to make sure you don’t mess up the threads you just made.

    At this point, the threads are ready to go in, but they need to be prepped a bit first. Before you install them, notice that they have a thin layer of oil on them to protect them. This oil needs to be removed for the loctite to function at its best. Take some brake cleaner and shoot them liberally. Let them air dry.

    DSCN0230

    Once they have dried, take those stainless nuts that come with the kit and put them about halfway up the thread on the provided bolts. Take the thread inserts and thread them up the bolt, starting with the end that has the grooves for a screwdriver. It should look something like this:

    DSCN0234

    See how deep those threads are? They’ll catch the metal of the knuckle MUCH better than the threads on the OEM bolt!

    Now you can use the loctite and put a layer around the outer portion of those threads.

    DSCN0235 DSCN0236

    Now, thread them from the inside of the knuckle out towards the end of the hub. The bolt and nut will help you install the thread. Install it until the bolt stops against the knuckle. This will ensure the thread is flush. At this point, you have 2 options.
    1. Leave the bolt installed and let the loctite cure overnight. This will give a strong bond.
    2. Remove the bolt carefully and continue reattach the rotor, calipers, etc. The pressure from the caliper and bolt being on there should also help create a strong bond.

    I did both - 1 on the driver side and 2 on the passenger side. We’ll see if there is any difference. I don’t think there will be. Anyway, with the thread installed, it should look something like this:

    DSCN0239

    Reinstalled, everything should look normal. Make sure you torque the bolts down to OEM specs (about 11 lb/ft).

    DSCN0240

    This kit is yet another excellent example of what mrblaine can put together. You have his Safety Thimble, Tough Stuff products, the Vanco Big Brakes, and now this (I’m sure there are others). I would HIGHLY recommend this kit to ANYBODY running stock knuckles. This stripping can happen at any time by anybody, professional or shade-tree mechanic.

    -Paul

    Just a quick note here from mrblaine on the install:

    Very nice Paul. I appreciate the kind words. A few notes- Don’t worry as much about overtightening. Of course you shouldn’t, but the inserts are high quality and not as susceptible to stripping out as the softer cast iron the knuckle is made out of. You also have a bit more thread engagement to aid in preventing that as well.

    If anyone else does this in steps as in one side and then later on does the other side and in the process loses the small tube of Loctite, don’t substitute any other kind. I did a lot of testing with various forms of threadlocker including the dry patch that came on the inserts and nothing works as well as the LIQUID Red 271.

    I had to send the inserts back to EZ Lock to get their dry patch removed because of how inconsistent it was. Only 1 out of 4 would hold after the recommended 24 hour bond interval.

    There is also an option of two different drill bits. The standard full shank and a reduced shank for those that don’t have access to larger than a 3/8″ drill motor.

    EJC Big Bear

    May 27th, 2008
    Big Bear

    Where: Big Bear
    When: May 24 2008
    Who: Edmonton Jeep Club - Mark (Mark_93YJ), Travis (imbezol), Ian (mystere1), Shane, Pat, and I (Davin (raskull)).

    What an awesome day! Edmonton Jeep Community headed out for one of our first major trips of the season. Mind you, we tend to wheel all year around anyways, ’cause wheeling in the snow is so much fun. Most of the group left friday night for the Rocky Mountain House/Prairie Creek area. I had to replace the u-joints in my Dana 30 axle shafts so I did that on friday and drove out saturday morning. We were on the highway by 7am and got to the campsite at about 10am. A couple minutes before our camp site I saw some jeeps down in another camp, so I pulled in to see if it was EJC. Turns out it was the Trail Seekers out of Red Deer. They all had huge rigs, easily 36+ tires on all of them. There was even a huge yellow YJ on 44″ boggers.

    img_0003

    Once we got to the camp site, Alex (my winch bit- er.. passenger) and I set up the tent and unloaded everything but the essentials to cut down the weight for the trip. There was too many people there to take on one trail without causing some long waits, so we split into 2 groups and ran two different trails. Our group was equipped with a winch on every vehicle, which turned out to be a necessity later on in the trip. We also had Pat with us, and he brought his Polaris Razr. He did quite well all day only needing a winch once. He had done some work to it though including new agressive tires, and a custom snorkel that can be seen in this picture.

    IMG_0005

    As you can see in the picture here, it was *very* wet out. The woods all around us were damp and in may places slightly flooded up to a foot or so of water. The ditches all had little rivers in them, and the mud was just awesome! Big Bear is a tougher trail, and when you run it frontside, it has one extremely tough climb with 2′ to 3′ high rock ledges to climb up. Because of the weather we ran it backwards, so we would be going down those ledges instead of up and the trail becomes somewhat easier.

    img_0023

    Nothing like getting into trouble right at the beginning of the trail! It was raining, and probably had been raining for at least a week or so out there. The first small hill we came to was washed out pretty good. I got excited right away because I love to get into a bit of trouble, and a slippery wash out is always good fun. Technical wheeling at it’s best. Mark was first to go up and decided to take the crossing route. He stuck to the left side as far as he could and tried to cross the rut in what looked like the best spot. He managed to get one wheel down into it but couldn’t pull himself out from there. Out came the winch and he was free in no time.

    I was next and decided that it would be easier to straddle the wash out all the way up. Here’s a video of my valiant-yet-futile attempt. I made it farther than the others trying to straddle it which is good I guess, but it gets to slippery and wide to pass with a straddle I think. I ended up slipping my back tire into the gap and tipping over to what felt like almost rolling the jeep. Out came the winch cable from there, and I was at the top with Mark without any other troubles. Travis was next, and he tried to straddle it as well. The same fate was due for him, and he slipped into the muddy rut, and needed to winch out. He slipped in the other direction though, and ended up winching to the starting side, then tried to cross the gap like Mark did. He did very well though, and almost made it across the gap, but needed to winch like the others. Much of the same happened for each and every person. Shane got real tippy as you can see in the picture above. The rut was fairly deep and managed to swallow his 36″ TSL SX tires easily.

    img_0029

    We encountered a couple more small washouts farther up the hill that didn’t provide much trouble. At the top of the hill the trail turns left and heads towards Big Bear. The scenery on this trail is incredible! Especially on a day like today with a bit of rain. It creates a mist that is just thick enough to make everything look real wet yet still allows you to see quite far into the distance to the next big hill. Big Bear is a rocky climb full of shale rocks anywhere from fist size to half-basketball size rocks, and it has a few shale ledges near the top. We were going backwards (down Big Bear), so the ledges were enough for a bit of pucker factor, but as long as you were on the right line they didn’t provide any troubles. Pat was going down first and could not make it down the ledges without rolling forward due to the very short wheelbase of his Razr. We hooked a winch line up to the rear of his machine as he went down to help out and he did fine. The rest of us slowly crawled down without any troubles. It was pretty scary though because it was so wet out. This made the rocks quite slick and you didn’t always have perfect traction. When a tire drops off the ledge you skid for a bit before you gain normal traction again and that made it interesting for sure.

    Once we were at the bottom, Steve (who was riding with Mark) told Ian he should see how far up Big Bear he could get. Ian took the challenge and headed up the hill. He did well all the way up to the real steep part where the rock ledges start. Once he hit that point and started to climb them, he blew a bead on the rear driver’s side corner. Now he was stuck there on the ledge with three wheels. Hiroki (his passenger) hooked up his winch line and they winched up the ledges and put on his spare tire. They finished the climb, turned around, aired down the spare and came back down. Coming down a steep hill, looking across the valley at the climb back up the other side is an odd thing. It makes the hill you are looking at on the other side seem a lot steeper than it really is. When we got to the bottom of Big Bear though, the hill back up wasn’t bad at all and we all climbed up it without issue.

    IMG_0066

    We went up and down a couple more non-puckering hills before we came up to a large ice formation over top of a small stream. Looks like there was a ton of ice here during the winter, and it had not yet fully melted. It was overhanging the stream and looked to be a couple feet thick in some places still. We needed to cross here, but in order to do so we would have to climb the ice ledge and cross on top of it. Mark took a few attempts at getting up but the ledge was obviously very slippery and was more than half way up his tires, so he could not climb it. Each of us had to winch up the ledge and we carried on from there. When on top of the ice Travis broke through and dropped his back tire a foot and half down into a hole. No big deal but it made things a bit more interesting for the others coming after him.

    IMG_0087

    A bit later we came up to a tough descent. It was another washed out hill and we all straddled it on the way down. It was a tough one because we were constantly battling, trying not to slip into the wash out. We all managed to do fine though, and no one slipped in. The wash out weaved all over the place, left and right, so you would need to adjust left and right on the way down as well. Right at the bottom of the wash out the trail splits off into two directions. Straight ahead the bypass, and to the right there is the aptly named Rut Hill. Brink_ from EJC (check his awesome build thread here) flopped his jeep on 42’s here last year. Steve nonchalantly mentioned over the radio that if any of us wanted to try going down it we could go ahead. Just knowing Eric rolled here last year was enough to prevent any of us from trying it. It was even worse now because of all the rain as well. We took the bypass around it and met up at the bottom of Rut Hill. Once we were at the bottom Travis decided to see how far up it he could get. Here’s a video of that. I won’t say too much about it aside from the fact that it really shows what his new RE 5.5 LA lift can do. Keeping all his wheels on the ground really allows his tires to do what they do best. It will be cool to see what it can do when he gets his 37’s on there. Colour me jealous! It’s tough parking in the garage next to him every day. :P

    IMG_0095

    After Trav was done putting on his show, we all had to turn around to go back up the bad wash out we just came down. It was so slick down there that two of us couldn’t get turned around at all. We ended up going down the trail another 75 feet or so and turning around on a flat section of the trail. The trouble was we couldn’t get up the extra section either and had to winch back to the bottom of Rut Hill. We made it past there and made our way back to the wash out we just came down. Turns out going up it was a *lot* tougher than coming down, and everyone needed to winch the entire way. Travis was first to go up and he has the tough task of figuring out the best winch points. The winch up was pretty scary, and there was a few points where the only thing holding you from rolling backwards was your winch line. It all went smoothly and no one flopped or rolled their jeeps. It took about 2 hours, maybe more to get everyone up.

    IMG_0106

    Once up the hill we headed back in the direction towards Big Bear, and turned off in another direction a bit before. This headed back towards the trail head through a different route. It lead through some wet areas and some simple trails, and ended up at a very muddy stream crossing area. It looked like a war zone, and it was easy to tell that there had been lots of others here this season. Lots of tracks going off in many different directions to try and find a way across the stream and mud holes. Travis dove in first because he had a snorkel. He made it fairly far but ended up getting stuck in the last hole. Mark was next.. He got through the 1st part and dove into the second stream and instantly got stuck. Buried up to his door panel on the passenger side. Steve was quick to open the passenger side for a picture and we heard Mark yelling at him to shut the door before the water started gushing into the cabin. It was really funny! Ian headed off in a different direction seeking his own way through. Ian made a valiant effort and flung mud all over for a good 20 minutes passing from hole to hole on his trek to the exit. He eventually got hung up on a large log that prevented him from passing farther. Shane ended up getting in front of him, and used his winch to pull the log out first, then Ian. Ian had done all this with his passenger side window open and the door panel and seat in the jeep were both swimming in mud. We winched out Mark, and we both got through the same spot he was just stuck in, through a better line.

    IMG_0107

    On the last pull of the day my winch controller gave up the ghost. It would no longer make contact spooling in, so I guess I will have to re-wire it. Once we were all through the muddy section, it was a short easy climb back up the trail head where we had left Pat’s Truck. He loaded up his Razr and we headed back to camp.

    As I said earlier it rained all day. It was nice enough out that it was not cold at all, and a sweater was all you needed though. The weather for wheeling was awesome, but it’s not so fun for camping. It was extremely mucky and wet all day so even the simplest obstacles were a little tough. Overall through it was an absolutely amazing trail, and I loved every bit of it. The views off the mountain ledges with the mist from the rain is just breathtaking. It’s unfortunate that the camera’s don’t really capture it like I hoped they would, but please have a look at the entire gallery here. There are some really awesome photos in there! In the video sub-album there’s some cool videos too. I’d like to thank Steve and Mark for the trip. The Big Bear trail is definitely one of my favorites, and I can’t wait to go back again in dry weather and try going up Big Bear! I’d also like to thank Alex (Thinko) for riding along with me. Was nice to have some help with the winch and picture taking.

    IMG_0085

    Ian: Scarred tire, popped bead, winch malfunctioned and started spooling on it’s own, breaking his synthetic line
    Davin: Winch controller shorting out. UPDATE: Solenoids gone in winch, controller is ok

    -Davin (Raskull)

    Myjeeptj.com desktop background

    May 22nd, 2008

    I’ve taken a bit of time tonight to do up a simple desktop background tonight in a bunch of different sizes. I used my favorite picture of my jeep, even though it’s a bit dated (doesn’t have a winch).

    myjeeptj bg 01

    Choose a size below.
    (ie: right click -> save as) (firefox: right click -> save link as)

    16:9 widescreen
    1920×1200
    1680×1050
    1440×900
    4:3 fullscreen
    1600×1200
    1280×960
    1152×864
    1024×768
    5:4 fullscreen
    1280×1024

    If you have a *really* good image of your TJ or other jeep, please leave a comment on this post with a link to a high resolution shot and I can make a background out of it as well! (3 megapixel or 2048×1536 at least please)

    - Davin (Raskull)

    KC Daylighter 150w sealed beam

    May 21st, 2008

    Sometime in August 2006, not too long after I bought my Jeep I was looking for some lighting upgrades. I had not yet upgraded my headlights to the current Hella H4’s I have now, the stock headlights were terrible, and my Jeep did not come with the factory fog lights. Although my build sheet says it did have them new, the previous owner seemed to have done a little “stripping” before he sold the Jeep. The stock tow hooks were all missing too. I found a set of KC Daylighter 150W sealed beam driving lights on jeepforum.com in the for sale section. The price was right, so I bought them and had them in a week or so. My first impressions was that they were quite big, and very stout. I could only hope they lit up the trails as good as they felt.

    The instructions that come with the lights are very complete and you should use them. This write-up is only meant to give you an idea of what I did with my install, and show you how I mounted my switch/relay etc. The KC instructions also do not mention drill sizes, and do not show a Jeep TJ specific install.

    Tools:

  • Drill
  • 1/2″ bit
  • 1/8″ bit
  • 3/4″ wrench
  • Ratchet
  • 3/4″ socket
  • Wire strippers
  • Heat gun
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Side cutters
  • 13mm wrench
  • Parts:

  • 10 ga. wire
  • Butt connectors
  • Wire loom
  • Shrink wrap
  • Zip ties
  • Time:

  • 1-2 hours
  • IMG_0034 IMG_0001
    1: Make sure you have all the parts listed that come with the package. Also make sure you have some extra wire, as you will likely need it (depending on how you route your wiring).
    IMG_00352: Choose a location for your lights. How you mount them will depend on where you want them. I put mine on my stock bumper in the stock mounting holes for the factory fog lights, and I will write this article as if you were mounting them there as well. Start out by drilling the factory bolt holes to 1/2″. You can then insert the Daylighters into the new holes, insert a rubber grommet on the bottom, then a lock washer and nut. Hand tighten the nut, we’ll aim them after they are working.
    IMG_00393: Go ahead and route your wires. You may need to crimp on some extra wire if you route the wire from the driver’s side light all the way to the firewall and over. You will need to use your own discretion at this stage. Take your time and route the wires nicely, use wire loom and lots of zip ties! If you have a soldering iron and heat gun it’s always a good idea to solder your connections, and shrink wrap them. It’s a lot stronger and cleaner than a butt connector! Those with a keen eye may notice I did not have a soldering iron or heat gun when I installed mine, but they have not caused me any issues with water yet (fingers crossed).
    IMG_00414: Drill a small hole to mount your relay. Make sure you mount it with the open end facing down so if it gets wet it will drain dry instead of holding water. Remove both the in-line fuses at put them in a safe place until you are done the install. I mounted my relay in the fender well near the battery, The small screw sticks into my fender well about 1/8th of an inch. There’s no way for my tire to get up there. I’m not 100% sure of the size of hole I drilled for this but I am 90% sure it was 1/8″. If you’re unsure measure the size of the sheet metal screw that comes with the kit. Make sure you measure the screw without the width of the threads, and that will give you an indication of what to drill.
    IMG_00445: Once you have all your wires where you want them, disconnect the positive terminal to your battery and swing the terminal into a safe spot, not touching metal. Hook up your positive lead from the relay to one of the two posts inside your fuse box under the hood. Then you can hook up the negative side to a good ground somewhere or directly to the negative battery terminal. I prefer to run my positive ends of all my accessories to the fuse box instead of the battery because it makes for a cleaner install and shields the connectors from water.
    IMG_00486: Go ahead and start taking your dash apart for the switch install. I started off by taking the top bezel off that has the vents for the defrost in it, on top of the dash. You can lift a corner with a small screwdriver and the rest will pop off by hand. There are two phillips screws on top that hold the main middle dash on. Once those two screws are out you can pull on the section so the top clips pop out. Then you can slide your fingers down and pull on the sides to pop the bottom two out, and the middle section of the dash will be off. You will also want to take the section off underneath your steering wheel. This one has two phillips screws, one on each side. Undo those, and pull the top of it towards you. The clips will pop out, and the bottom just un-hooks.
    IMG_00467: I chose to mount my switch right on top of the screw that holds in the heater controls. There was only two bolts holding in the controls anyway, so I was not losing any mounting hardware. This proved to be a pain because I had to drill a hole through the outside bezel and the heater controls to put the wires through, but to this day I have not thought I would like the switch elsewhere. It’s easy to reach up and hit the switch from the shifter without looking, which I love. The key to this step is to take your time and think well about where you want the switch, and make sure several times that it does not interfere with something once it’s put back together. Once you are certain of the location drill your hole and mount it up! I chose not to use the small switch panel that comes with the kit and installed the switch itself right to the dash plastic. Much cleaner!
    IMG_00458: Now you can run your wires from the switch. The brown wire from your switch is the ground, and it can be attached to any good ground under the dash. I attached mine to one of the screws that holds the dash together. Just put a screw back in it’s normal place when you reinstall the dash, and put the connector for the ground on that. You can see in this picture where I plan on putting mine (click for a larger version).
    9: The green wire is your negative or “load” wire. It runs to the relay you installed under the hood. The white wire is your positive lead. I ran mine directly to one of the positive posts in my fuse box under the hood, but you can also run this to your high beams or low beams if that is how you want your lights to run. That simply means that your lights would only work when the low or high beams have power (are on). I really prefer to have it separate so I can use them whenever and however I like. There is a large rubber grommet that has a wiring harness passing through it under your dash up above the driver’s side footwell. This is a great place to drill a small hole to run wires through.
    10: Reconnect your battery, put your dash back together, and install both in-line fuses in their homes. Remember that the two fuses are not the same, so read the labels on the fuse holders and install them properly. Now would also be a good time to make sure you have all your wires covered in loom, and routed nicely. You should also go through and make sure all your connections are good, and everything is “done”.
    IMG_004911: Go ahead and test them out! If you’re having troubles and they are not working at all, double check all your connections and make sure your relay and switch are getting power. A test light works wonders and can be had at your local hardware for under $10. If your relay or switch is not getting power make sure your grounds are good (with the test light), and go from there. You may also have the fuses installed improperly, or you might have blown a fuse. If you have blown a fuse you have a wiring issue, and will need to check all your wiring.
    00012 Keep in mind that these lights get very hot very fast. That means that if you leave the covers on for a few minutes it *will* melt them! I use the black rock guards on mine now, and they will melt those too. It’s not much of an issue where I live, but if you are wheeling in hot weather it might be a good idea to wheel with the rock guards off. If you’re moving along though, they will be fine with the heat. Try not to run them on the street. You will annoy other drivers, and you might get a ticket for it. On the trail or even on a highway with low traffic they are amazing. I have several friends with all sorts of different types of lights and none of them stack up to these for sheer brightness. They are not great as a flood light, but they do light up a trail nicely at night anyways. If you’re looking for a real good flood light for the trails, KC offers something for that too. Just be weary when you buy because a sealed beam will hold up to the elements much much better than a non-sealed beam. Not all of KC lights are sealed lenses.

    Note: This modification was done on my 2003 TJ. All model years older than 2003 may not use metric fasteners so your tools and bolts may vary slightly. Please do not follow my instructions blindly without checking stuff like bolt sizes out first.

    Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad!

    -Davin (Raskull)

    Gear ratio to tire size chart

    May 3rd, 2008

    Here’s a great little chart to find out what gear ratio would be good for you if you are changing tire sizes. Keep in mind that this is in no way a definitive answer. A lot will depend on what type of terrain you wheeling, how much on-road/highway driving you do, what MPG you are aiming for, etc etc. Also keep in mind that this is a general chart. It does not take into account what transfer case you have.. If your TJ is not a Rubicon you will have a NV231 t-case and 2.71:1 crawl ratio. If you have a Rubicon you have a NV241 t-case and a 4:1 crawl ratio. This has a very big effect when you are wheeling in 4-low! You can get away with a lower gear ratio and still crawl slower than your friends with 2.71:1. On the other side of the same equation you can gear the same as your friends without Rubicon’s and crawl even slower! Another factor to keep in mind is that the tire size listed on the tire itself is not always the actual size of the tire. Some tires in the upper 30’s and 40’s are up to a couple inches smaller than what is listed.

    Gear Ratios
    (Click image for full size)

    For what I use my jeep for currently, I think right about the higher blue levels would suit me good. For example if I go to a 36″ tire, I would want to be right at 4.88. That would give me lots of gearing for mud and hill climbs, decent power at a higher RPM on the highway, and the usual horrible MPG like I expect out of my jeep (only worse than stock)!

    Stock gearing in my jeep is 3.07, and the stock GSA tires are about 28″ in size. 27.7″ x 8.5″ to be exact. That puts it right in the bottom of the yellow area, which gives pretty poor performance on the highway. Add 31″ tires to the mix (my jeep), and the issue is even worse.

    Custom bumper build, round 2

    April 30th, 2008

    Well, I started over. It looked great in my head but I didn’t like the final outcome, and it was going to prove more difficult to mount than I had planned (I think). My original drawings are here.

    I started off with a more conventional idea.. a formed front with a flat top. At just under 39″ wide, it’s a (very) stubby bumper. I will be going the tube fender route on my rig, so there is no need to have fender protection to get in the way when climbing a steep obstacle. I also took the time to draw in the winch plate and tubing for it. I’ve got the stock mounting locations drawn in as well, so it will be easy to get them CNC plasma cut (if I decide to go that route).

    A few changes need to be made when I actually fabricate the bumper. I want to make sure the stinger is an inch or two higher than the grill hoop. I need to make sure it fits properly with a 1.25″ body lift. And lastly, I need to make sure the bumper has the sides cut out enough to work with a Currie Anti-Rock sway bar system.

    One thing I’m uncertain about is my KC driving lights.. I love them to death and don’t want to get rid of them, yet I won’t have room on the bumper for lights any more. I was thinking of going with a fairlead mount to have them both in the middle of the stinger. I saw a good one over at AtoZ fabrication.. It’s cheap too although for the effort required to get one shipped etc, I would just make one I think. their mount can be seen here.

    So on with the new drawings! (click them to see full versions)

    In this last one I was toying with the idea of an inset winch mount.

    Give me your thoughts, let me know what you think!