July 13th, 2008
| If you wheel your jeep it’s a very good idea to make sure you, your passengers, and the people you wheel with are recovering vehicles in a safe manner. Result to do so could result in some very nasty injuries or death. This is a very vast subject, and if I’m honest, I really don’t have enough experience to talk about it in great length. I have been wheeling for only two years, so I will talk about this fairly lightly and only touch on some basic safety tips, recovery methods, and some tricks I’ve learned. |
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First: Here’s a list of the items I feel are essential to have on the trail. There is quite a few and it may not be necessary to carry all of them alone, but at least make sure your party has a good set of tools and safety items to get you out of whatever mess you might get into. I will place stars by each one as a rating of how important I think they are to have.
*** - Essential, ** - At least half the vehicles need this, * - At least one vehicle needs this.
*** Proper recovery points on the front AND rear of each vehicle.
*** 20,000 lb+ Looped end (no metal) Kinetic recovery straps (2″ wide is best)
*** 3/4″ Clevis (D-Ring)
*** Lots of water and some food
*** Working CB radio
*** First aid kit
*** Fire Extinguisher
*** Warm dry clothes
*** Gloves
*** Tire pressure gauge
*** Breaker bar w/ proper socket for your lug nuts
*** Tree saver (if you have a winch)
*** 19,000 lb+ Snatch block (if you have a winch)
*** Winch line weight (if you have a winch)
** Recovery and Repair tools
** Air compressor
** Knife
** Winch
** Garbage bags (Tread Lightly!)
** Waterproof matches
** Paper towel and toilet paper
* Bottle jack
* Shovel
* Axe
* Ratchet strap
* 48″ farm fack (Hi-Lift)
* Flashlight
* Chainsaw
* Fluids (oil, gear oil, antifreeze, etc)
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This is not a “complete” list of things you should bring. A bit of experience and some common sense will show you what else you may need. Your trail tools will undoubtedly grow a bit each time you need tools on the trail. You might need a tool that someone else has, so you should add that to your list for next time. I didn’t bother adding spare parts to the list because that list changes with every vehicle, but it’s something you need to consider. With a Jeep TJ it’s a good idea to carry a few items that can be had for cheap like u-joints, axle shafts, and control arms. Control arms (stock ones) and axle shafts can be taken from the junkyard for next to nothing, and a couple good u-joints (one for your front axle shaft, one for your driveshafts) can be had for $30 or so.
A few notes on some particular items:
Recovery straps: I like the Silver Pro-Comp 2″ wide ones myself. They stretch well when used to get a good kinetic jerk going that makes recovery much easier. A real stiff strap that does not do this is much harder to use, and is a lot tougher on your recovery points and frame mounts. I have personally see a non-stretchy one almost rip grade eight bolts out of the stock front TJ frame. If the bolts weren’t grade eight, the tow hook may have become a flying hunk of metal.
Recovery points: Don’t even think of using a small 1″ class I receiver hitch for this. It is extremely dangerous! I don’t even like a large class III hitches because they are only rated to tow 5,000 lbs. when recovering a Jeep from the mud it’s very easy to get a pull of well over 5,000 lbs.
Chain Saw: On a well used trail it’s probably not going to be needed.. but out here in Alberta there are thousands of cutlines on Crown Land through the woods that not many people use. They are legal to wheel on, but there are often fallen trees crossing the trail. If we can climb over them we always do because that’s part of the fun. If you can leave that obstacle for the next person, all the better! If it’s too big and will block the trail for everyone it’s better to cut it and move it than to make a bypass.
CB Radios/Communication: This is a BIG one. If you’re the trail lead/guide I would recommend you make sure before the trip that those without a CB radio are not allowed to come. I know it sounds harsh, but when you are wheeling with people you cannot communicate with it can cause many issues. You simply need to be able to talk to people on the trail to discuss obstacles, routes, where to turn, when someone is stuck, etc, etc. I understand that it may not be realistic for you to deny someone a day on the trail for this, but in reality.. a good CB setup can be had for about $100 or less and there is simply no excuse for not having one.
Winch: This will really depend on the difficulty of trail you ad your group are running, but I placed it in the two-star category because simply put: The more the better. It’s not often you will run into a spot where one vehicle with a winch cannot turn around and winch everyone else though, but it does happen. Not only that, when there is a tough winch-through spot it’s nice to have everyone winch themselves through instead of working the snot out of one winch. You never know what sort of trouble you may get into, and having at LEAST one winch in the group is near essential, and having more than one is even better.
Air compressor: No, I’m not talking about something for running air tools. Airing down on the trail is essential! Just something small and cheap will do for airing up your tires after the trail. It doesn’t have to be fast, but reliability is always a good thing. I use the Superflow MV50 in my jeep and it has been working flawlessly for over a year now. It only cost me $130 and I bought it at 4 Wheel Parts.. You can likely find the same thing or something similar at your local 4×4 shop.
Ratchet strap: This one is not obvious, and please make sure you never use it for vehicle recovery. A ratchet strap is useful for re-seating a bead on a tire. Generally with a decent air compressor you can just pull the tire toward the bead to get it to seal well enough to hold air and re-seat the bead. But if it needs some extra “help”, wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and tighten it up. Make sure you stop the air flow once it seats to take off the strap. You don’t want to be pumping the tire up to pressure with a tight ratchet strap on it!
This is all I am going to add for now. I will continue to add more to this article later on. I will be adding some good recovery methods and tips, and more later.
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
-Davin (Raskull)
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July 13th, 2008
If you wheel your Jeep TJ long enough you *will* bend a stock fender. Unless you’ve got some fancy bumper that sticks out there to protect them of course. They are out there in a pretty vulnerable spot, and once they are bent they will never look perfect again. Oh well, I guess that’s a good excuse to buy tube fenders! Anyways, I figured I would get mine looking as good as I can for now, and this is how I did it. |
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Tools:
Hi-Lift Jack
Block of Wood (12″ long or so)
Parts:
n/a
Time:
10 minutes
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1: This is a real quick and easy one folks. Just grab your hi-lift and your block of wood. Place the block of wood under the fender lengthwise to increase the hi-lift’s footprint, and jack it up until the fender bends back to shape. I can’t really tell you exactly how much to lift it because it will depend on how badly it’s bent, etc. On mine I lifted it up so the fender was bent upwards a little PAST level. I let it sit this way for about 15 seconds to fatigue the material into shape a bit. Once I let off the hi-lift it was as straight as can be! Note: This picture was taken for reference only.. the passenger side was the one that was bent. |
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After |
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Well, I’m happy with the results and so was my buddy Kyle (o-min). He liked the results enough that he asked me to do his as well, and his turned out just as nice. Hope this helps you guys out!
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
-Davin (Raskull)
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July 12th, 2008
Any time you install a lift you will need to set your toe in. Once that is done, you will likely need to recenter your steering wheel. It’s a very simple process, but you will want to have a friend help you as it makes things much simpler and faster. |
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Tools:
13mm ratchet
13mm wrench
Pipe wrench (large is better. 18+” is good)
A friend
Parts:
n/a
Time:
> 30 minutes
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1: Park your Jeep TJ with the tires as straight as you can. Your steering box is connected to the drag link via the pitman arm. We’re going to be adjusting the length of the drag link in this write-up. Locate the adjuster sleeve on the drag link and loosen the bolts that hold the clamps together. You do not need to remove them. |
2: Have a friend take a seat in the jeep and relax. He/She won’t be workin’ very hard for this. Grab your pipe wrench and turn the adjuster sleeve until the steering wheel is as straight as you can. Once that is done you will need to tighten the bolts on the sleeve clamps back up and take a test drive. If you notice it’s still a bit off while driving, try again. |
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That’s it.. pretty simple huh? As I said it may take a couple tries to get it feeling right. Remember you will need to perform this task every time you adjust your jeeps height (up or down) and whenever you set your toe-in. The article for setting your toe-in can be found here.
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
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-Davin (Raskull)
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July 12th, 2008
If you’ve done any amount of lift (even just replacing sagged springs with newer ones), you will need to do a basic alignment of your steering. If your toe in is not set up correctly you will experience uneven tire wear and odd on road behavior. Once you are done this write-up, have a look here to set your steering wheel straight. |
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Tools:
Tape measure
13mm ratchet
13mm wrench
Pipe wrench (large is better. 18+” is good)
A friend
Floor/Bottle Jack (optional)
Jack Stand (optional)
Parts:
None
Time:
30 minutes
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| 1: Park your Jeep TJ on level ground with the wheels straight. Leave it in gear, pull your e-brake and chock your tires. You may be doing some serious pulling on it and you don’t want it moving on you. Your tie rod is the one that goes from steering knuckle to steering knuckle. The length of this effects how your tires are aligned to eachother. Imagine walking pigeon toed or the opposite with your toes outwards; same idea here. |
2: When setting your toe in there are two common ways to do it. You can do it with the tires on the ground or floating in the air. I find that setting it up with the tires o the ground works just as easy and takes less time so that’s how I do mine. If you would prefer to put the tires in the air go ahead and do so at this time. This supposedly helps you more easily see small adjustments to the toe-in… but I haven’t really had problems with it on the ground. Start off by grabbing your front bumper and pushing down/up on it a few times to let the tires settle and sit naturally. This will help with a more accurate setup. Loosen the bolts that hold the tie rod to the tie rod ends. You do not need to remove them, just loosen them so we can adjust the tie rod. |
3: You will need to measure from the front most point on the tires, and the back most. Start by finding a lug on the forward portion of the tire to hook the tape measure on, and measure across to the same spot on the opposite tire. Write this measurement down. As an example, we’ll say it’s 42 3/4″ (42.75). Then you measure the back (THE SAME EXACT WAY). Hook the tape on exactly the same lug style (many tires have different sizes of lugs in patterns, the key is to get the same “spot” as the front). You also need to make sure you measure the back from the back most part! As an example, we’ll say the back is 43 1/4″ (43.25). In our example, your front is 1/2″ smaller than the rear. This means your tires are toed in too much. |
4: Ideally you should have your toe in adjusted to 1/8″ of an inch shorter than the back. In our example, about 43″ for the front and 43 1/8″ for the back would be good. Whichever way you need to adjust will depend on your results of the measurement. Rotating the tie rod forward (as if it was spinning the same direction as the tires when moving forward) will DECREASE the length of it. Rotating it backwards will INCREASE the length. Grab your pipe wrench and grab the tie rod anywhere close to the middle, and rotate the tie rod in the desired direction. This may be *very* difficult depending on how rusty/old/seized it is. When I helped a friend with an ‘05 Rubicon we needed two pipe wrenches and two guys to move it. We sprayed the ends down well with WD-40 and after we got it to move around a bit it loosened up considerably. |
5: It will likely take you a few tries to get it right. Take a measurement, adjust a bit, take another measurement, etc. Once you are satisfied you have it at or very close to 1/8th of an inch, tighten up the 13mm bolts on each end of the tie rod and you’re done. |
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Now that you have your toe in set up correctly you can go out and test drive the jeep!
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad! If you have any questions or would like to talk about a different topic, go ahead and post up on the myjeeptj.com forums!
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-Davin (Raskull)
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July 8th, 2008
This is a photo from last summer, but it still resides as one my favourites. The photo was taken out near Caroline, Alberta. It was taken in the pouring rain which always makes for a great shot!
I kept this one fairly simple. I just basically just darkened the corners a bit and added the myjeeptj.com logo. For the 16×9 resolutions I just did a little copying and darkening for the sides to make up the extra screen space.
My friend Alex (thinko) took the photo, so a thank you needs to go out to him! He also took an amazing shot of Barry’s YJ, and even though it’s not a TJ I’m tempted to make a background out of it anyway! …Those with a keen eye will notice I used this same photo for one of the rotating banner images at the top…

Choose a size below.
(ie: right click -> save as) (firefox: right click -> save link as)
16:9 widescreen
1920×1200
1680×1050
1440×900
4:3 fullscreen
1600×1200
1280×960
1152×864
1024×768
5:4 fullscreen
1280×1024
If you have a *really* good image of your TJ or other jeep, please leave a comment on this post with a link to a high resolution shot and I can make a background out of it as well! (3 megapixel or 2048×1536 at least please)
- Davin (Raskull)
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July 6th, 2008
| Your unit bearings are the main bearing that keeps your wheels turning on the outer part of your axle. They will need to be replaced once in a while. The time frame for this will depend on how often you wheel, the mileage on your Jeep TJ, and many other factors like how often you see mud, etc. when it comes to replacing them you will need a little grunt work, but it’s generally a job anyone with basic tools can do. You will save yourself some time (likely, depending on your time to get to/from the mechanic), and some money. Ok, enough babbling, on to the install! |
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Tools:
Ratchet
13mm 12 point socket
13mm wrench
3/4″ deep socket
Breaker bar
36mm 6 point socket
1/4″ 12 point wrench
Pliers or Needle nose pliers
BFH (big f’in hammer)
Metal chisel
Floor jack or bottle jack
Jack stands (at least one, two is better)
Parts:
Unit bearing(s)
Bearing grease
Time:
1-1.5 hours
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1: Park your Jeep TJ, leave it in gear and put on the e-brake. Chock your rear tires. Crack the lug nuts on the side you intend to work on first. Jack the tire up off the ground by your axle and place a jack stand under it. Remove the tire and place it underneath the axle. |
2: Remove the two caliper bolts from the back of the caliper with a 13mm wrench. Once you crack them they should turn out by hand as they are greased (or should be). Keep them clean and set them aside. You can then grab the top of the caliper and pivot it outwards to remove it from the rotor. Try not to leave it hang by the brake line.. you can set it on the tire, grab a wood block to set it on, tie it up with zip ties to something.. whatever you can find. |
| 3: Remove the rotor. Check the wheel studs for retaining clips. If there are still some on there you can remove them with some pliers or side cutters. The rotor should just pull off by hand, but it might not. If you are having troubles getting it off by hand, some taps on the face of it (in between the studs not where the brake pads touch) with a hammer should do the trick to break loose the rust holding it on. |
4: Remove the cotter pin that holds in the slotted retainer. Careful not to lose the spring behind the retainer when you remove it. You can now remove the axle nut. These are torqued down to 175ft lbs, so you will need that 36mm 6 point socket and a breaker bar. You also might need a little more leverage on the breaker bar.. a piece of tubing of a hi-lift handle works well. If you need a way to keep the axle shaft from spinning while you break it, I’ve got two simple methods for you. If you have a front locker, put it in 4wd and lock the front. That will allow the traction of the rear tires touching the ground to keep the front from spinning. The second method is to place a pry bar through your u-joint yoke so it will hit on the axle knucle stopping it from spinning. Once it’s cracked remove it and the washer behind it. |
5: Turn your attention to the back of the steering knuckle. There are three 12pt 13mm bolts that hold the unit bearing on. Remove these… they are usually very tight from the factory. It says 75 ft lbs in the service manual, but I don’t believe it. I used a 12 point wrench and another larger wrench (box end) on the end of that one as leverage. Probably not something that’s *good* for the wrenches.. but it works good! |
6: You can then remove the unit bearing. It might come off by hand depending on the age of your Jeep TJ and the type of wheeling you do. If not, I’ve got three methods that will hopefully help you out.
method 1: Put the tire back one and use a large breaker bar to pry the tire off. You can pry from anything you need, like a lower control arm, etc. Be careful and make sure you are prying on something strong!
method 2: Use a hammer and a steel chisel to tap around the edge of the unit bearing. It does take some effort, and it will likely scar up your dust plate a little bit.. but it works great.
method 3: I cannot take credit for this one. I found this method over on Stu Olsen’s site, and he gives credit to his friend Blaine (mrblaine on jeepforum). So, thanks to both of you! Find an appropriate size nut and bolt (grade 8 is better). Place one side of the bolt on the inside of the steering knuckle right beside where the axle shaft disappears into the axle tube. The other side should be resting on the outer axle shaft yoke that holds the u-joint. You can adjust the bolt lench with the nut to get it to rest in there. You can then turn the steering wheel to force outwards pressure on the yoke, which will unseat the unit bearing. If you are having troubles visualizing what I mean, click the fullsize version of the image above.
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7: You can then pull the unit bearing out. This will require holding the axle shaft in while you pull it out to separate it from the shaft. You can just leave the shaft and dust sheild hanging for now. Grab your new unit bearing and grease the contact point a little bit so it won’t sieze up with rust for next time! Grease up your axle shaft splines as well, and put the new one on. Line up the splines, and the dust plate and put the three bolts back in that hold it to the knuckle and tighten them to 75 ft lbs. |
8: I’m not going to write too much about putting it all back together because you’ve just learned how all this stuff works! Put your large washer, and axle nut (175 ft lbs) back on. Next is the spring washer and slotted retainer with cotter pin. Then you can put your rotor and brake caliper back on. The brake caliper should be placed on the downside first, then swung upwards.. the exact opposite of taking it off. You then put the two 13mm bolts back in and torque them to only 11 ft lbs. Reinstall your tire and tighten up the lug nuts a bit (criss-cross pattern) just so the rim is seated properly. Put your jeep back on all fours, and tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft lbs using a criss cross pattern as well. |
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Congratulations, you’re a pro; you’re ready to do the other side now! Aside from a couple hitches (like getting the damned unit bearing off) this was a pretty straight forward and easy install. Unit bearings can be had brand new for about $80-$100, and I would hazard a guess that the labour alone to take a job like this to a shop would be more than that.. so pat yourself on the back and have a beer! Hopefully your jeep’s nasty noise has gone away.
For a little extra entertainment.. have a look at my before and after videos of the bearings. :P
Please leave a comment if you used this article for your Jeep TJ. Leave a comment with any findings you discovered that I did not talk about as well. I would love to hear from you, good or bad!
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-Davin (Raskull)
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June 30th, 2008
I’ve updated the links at the top to better clarify where things are. The “Tech” link is now gone, and it’s content has been placed inside the newly redone “Write-ups” section. The new Write-ups section is broken down into categories so you can easily have a look at all that has been written here and find what you need.
If you don’t see what you’re looking for or have a question please ask in the new forums! I check them frequently each day and will get back to you soon.
I had a chance to go wheeling this weekend to test out the locker. I’ve added a quick 1st impression of the Detroit EZ Locker at the bottom of the write-up for the installation. Have a look!
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June 29th, 2008
Gallery link: http://myjeeptj.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=11051
Where: Alberta Safari Park
When: June 28 2008
Who: Edmonton Jeep Club - Chad ( Chado), Ian ( mystere1), Kyle ( Cyborg), Kyle ( o-min), Mark ( Mark_93YJ), Mike ( FSJCherokee79), Octavian ( JK-Boy), Steve (ysk), Tim ( BiTMAP), Travis ( imbezol), and I (Davin ( raskull)).
My 2nd trip out to the Alberta Safari Park. Last time I was out was a couple years ago, and in the winter.. so this was a different experience for sure. We got into lots and lots of deep mud, everyone got stuck at least once, and it served as a great shake-down run for o-min’s new lift and my new locker (it performed amazingly!). The weather was scorchin’ around the 30’s (celsius), so we all got a bit sun burned I think.. I did for sure.
First off I’d like to thank Lee for having us at his park. It’s always a treat to chat with Lee. He’s always very accommodating to the wheelers on his land. He offered us a newly sharpened chain saw to cut up some fire wood, free camping for the weekend, leg of lamb for dinner, two canoes for putzing around on the big pond, and the thickest mud you can find in Alberta! He’s got a Unimog that he plays around with, but he hid it this time (how the hell do you hide a Unimog?) so Steve wouldn’t steal it again. Steve and Lee are good friends, so don’t take that “stealing” the wrong way. :P

Ian was the first to get himself in trouble. We went along the right-most path just past Bill’s Gate where the RTI ramp resides. Along side that there is a trail they not-so-appropriately named the Ant Hills. The hills are as big as a jeep, and the mud holes in between the hills are about 3-4 feet deep right now. They will change with the weather of course, and it’s very dry out at the park right now. He dropped off the ledge into the first hole and found himself stuck before he even got to level ground, headlight deep. I *really* encourage you to check out the recovery video of this one.. Octavian pulled way too hard on him and would have caused him to roll if he had not kept pulling. It was pretty funny to watch Ian’s face!!

We puttered around the park for a while on the green trails. Funny thing about that though, the “green” trails are so muddy right now that only a couple of the jeeps were able to get through them without winching. I guess that’s what happens when you get a little rain, lots of traffic and good shade from the surrounding trees to prevent drying. Kyle (Cyborg) made it through ok with a few attempts, but I didn’t have the same luck. I dove into the first hole and my skidplate and diffs brought me to a halt real quick. From there I couldn’t move forward of backward and was winched the rest of the way. This budget boost of mine simply is not tall enough for these well-worn trails. They are broken in by rigs on 33’s to 37’s and up all summer.

We followed the green trails all the around the park to the two toughest hills at the park. One is called Widow Hill, and the other much tougher one is Lee’s Loss. Widow hill is fairly steep, but it’s a straight shot right now, not chewed up and dry.. so our whole group made it up without recoveries. Lee’s Loss is a little different story however. It’s basically impassible right now due to the way it throws your rig off to the side. Eric (Brink_) did a real nasty backwards roll there a few months back on his custom linked/stretched TJ on 42’s. Check out that link to his summer upgrades thread. :P

A little later we came up to Rocky Canyon (I think that’s what it’s called). It’s a short technical wash-out section that has lots of off camber climbing. A spotter is a great help, and due to it’s dry nature right now I was able to crawl through it down and back up. The new locker performed amazing and really shines in this type of terrain. With one wheel off the ground quite often, it’s nice to know you will still move when you want to. The one low part of this section had a little bit of mud in it, and after quite a few of us taking this optional course it was worn down enough that Steve in spite of his 35″ boggers was not able to get out. He pulled a winch line and was out in a jiffy. There is a nice filming platform about 7 feet above the area that was built for Lee’s yearly Tough Trail Challenge (Not to be confused with the Top Truck Challenge put on by four wheeler mag each year). The platform netted me a few cool videos of the obstacle.
We headed back to camp for a bite to eat and a beer or two. A few of us got fired up about trying Bill’s Gate and headed out to give it a shot. Three of us ran it down first because that’s easier.. once we had got that out of the way we figured we needed to go the much more difficult way, up. Steve was first and got through the first flexy part, over the big logs, around the off camber turn, and up to the last obstacle. The last part is a huge jeep-wide, 12 foot high V with a little mud at the start to slick up your tires. I hopped in his jeep for this part and he immediately says with a grin on his face over the sound of the air conditioning running full blast “Just let me know if it’s to cold for you”. We had some troubles straddling the V because the entrance to the last hill is muddy and flexy. It wants to toss you to the right side, passenger side down. It puts the jeep basically on it’s side with the passenger side window a few inches from the ground. We tried a few times, and got the jeep to go the other way, with the same results on the driver’s side. We ended up winching out.

Travis tried and had the same troubles. He was real close to getting out and ended up pulling up mostly past the tough part but a tire dropped into the V near the top. This chucked the passenger front tire into the air and he was unable to move. We pulled him out from there. I decided I better give it a shot because Travis and Steve were open front/rear. I got into the same spot as Steve and Travis near the end and blew a bead on my first attempt at it. I started out the day 1t 8 PSI and lost a little somewhere and likely around 3-4. Definitely too low for obstacles that require a little ramming. It was a little disappointing because I really wanted to see if I would be able to get the right line with the locker in the rear. While being pulled out with my blown bead my passenger side dug in a little too much and it bent my passenger side fender downward. Not a real big deal I guess because I plan on flat fendering it later.. but it’s a cosmetic thing that kind of sucks for now. *shrug*
We headed back to camp and spent a few hours in the sun. We had a keg for the event, and cooked hotdogs. A few of us headed home that night (me included) and the rest stayed over night. There is guys from the club wheeling again out there tonight, but I figure a badly pushed up t-case skid plate, a bent fender, and a blown bead is enough for one weekend.
I heard tales of people going out onto the pond later in the canoes and tipping eachother over, but I won’t confirm those allegations. :) Thanks EJC for a great time, and thanks again Lee for having us! Travis just got back from the car wash as I write this.. he says he just spent $50 and the jeep is still not very clean. I told you it was the thickest mud in Alberta! Have a peek at the Alberta Safari site, and make a point of going out there if you live close enough and haven’t been yet. It’s well worth the small amount he charges.

Ian: Two blown beads (man you are a pro at that these days!)
Davin: Pushed up t-case skid, bent passenger fender, blown bead
-Davin (Raskull)
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2 Comments
June 23rd, 2008
The myjeeptj.com forum is up! It’s a TJ oriented forum for obvious reasons, although there is a “other jeeps” section. I’ve got my build thread up there, and a bunch of good tech info in the TJ Tech section.
Nothing too much to boast about here yet, the theme is temporary until I can come up with something or modify one to fit the theme of myjeeptj.com. No time tonight, gotta be up in 6 hours to go to work.
Have a look-see for yourself!
- Davin (Raskull)
No Comments
June 16th, 2008
Just a real quick post. Wanted to share (show off) the aluminum gas can holders I made for my brother a while back.
They are 1/4″ x 1.5″ aluminum flat bar. I formed them in the brake press at work, cut and drilled the tabs for the straps, then had a friend at work weld them up. They weigh next to nothing and are very strong.

There is a “tall-thin” style of gas can that we like, and I made them so they would fit that particular one snugly. They can be had at Canadian Tire for about $20 or so. Then you use a rubber strap through the handle of the gas can to the tabs to hold them down. Just need to fab up a mount for the tire carrier, and we’re all set!
- Davin (Raskull)
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